How to Cite



Process-based, wave-resolving models are essential tools to resolve the complex hydro-morphodynamics in the swash zone. The open-source Non-Hydrostatic XBeach model can solve the depth-averaged wave-by-wave flow in the nearshore region up to the shoreline and the intra-wave bed changes during time-varying storms. However, validation and testing of its morphological response are still limited in the context of sandy beaches. This work aims to assess the performance of the wave-resolving sediment dynamics modelling within Non-Hydrostatic XBeach for different sediment transport formulations. The sediment transport modelling approaches considered in this study were tested and compared to laboratory experiments involving wave trains over an intermediate beach. Numerical results show a better performance in the prediction of the intra-swash sediment dynamics when the newly implemented wave resolving transport equation is applied compared to the existing approach within the model.

Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link):


Alsina, J.M., Cáceres, I., Brocchini, M., Baldock, T.E., 2012. An experimental study on sediment transport and bed evolution under different swash zone morphological conditions. Coastal Engineering 68, 31–43.

Alsina, J.M., Padilla, E.M., Cáceres, I., 2016. Sediment transport and beach profile evolution induced by bi-chromatic wave groups with different group periods. Coastal Engineering 114, 325–340.

Bai, Y., Yamazaki, Y., Fai Cheung, K., 2018. Convergence of multilayer nonhydrostatic models in relation to Boussinesq-type equations. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 144(2), 06018001.

Besio, G., Briganti, R., Romano, A., Mentaschi, L., De Girolamo, P., 2017. Time-clustering of wave storms in the Mediterranean sea. Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences 17.

Briganti, R., Dodd, N., Incelli, G., Kikkert, G., 2018. Numerical modelling of the flow and bed evolution of a single bore-driven swash event on a coarse sand beach. Coastal Engineering 142, 62–76.

Briganti, R., Torres-Freyermuth, A., Baldock, T.E., Brocchini, M., Dodd, N., Hsu, T.J., Jiang, Z., Kim, Y., Pintado-Patiño, J.C., Postacchini, M., 2016. Advances in numerical modelling of swash zone dynamics. Coastal Engineering 115, 26–41.

Chardón-Maldonado, P., Pintado-Patiño, J.C., Puleo, J.A., 2016. Advances in swash-zone research: Smallscale hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes. Coastal Engineering 115, 8–25.

Deltares, 2015. XBeach documentation, <> .

Incelli, G., Dodd, N., Blenkinsopp, C.E., Zhu, F., Briganti, R., 2016. Morphodynamical modelling of field-scale swash events. Coastal Engineering 115, 42–57.

Jacobsen, N.G., Fredsoe, J., Jensen, J.H., 2014. Formation and development of a breaker bar under regular waves. part 1: Model description and hydrodynamics. Coastal Engineering 88, 182–193.

Kim, D.H., Sanchez-Arcilla, A., Caceres, I., 2017. Depth-integrated modelling on onshore and offshore sandbar migration: Revision of fall velocity. Ocean Modelling 110, 21 – 31.

Kim, Y., Mieras, R.S., Cheng, Z., Anderson, D., Hsu, T.J., Puleo, J.A., Cox, D., 2019. A numerical study of sheet flow driven by velocity and acceleration skewed near-breaking waves on a sandbar using sedwavefoam. Coastal Engineering 152, 103526.

Larsen, B.E., van der Zanden, J., Ruessink, G., Fuhrman, D.R., et al., 2020. Stabilized rans simulation of surf zone kinematics and boundary layer processes beneath large-scale plunging waves over a breaker bar. Ocean Modelling 155, 101705.

Li, J., Qi, M., Fuhrman, D.R., 2019. Numerical modeling of flow and morphology induced by a solitary wave on a sloping beach. Applied Ocean Research 82.

Ma, G., Shi, F., Kirby, J.T., 2012. Shock-capturing non-hydrostatic model for fully dispersive surface wave processes. Ocean Modelling 43, 22–35.

Mancini, G., Briganti, R., McCall, R., Dodd, N., Zhu, F., 2020. Numerical modelling of intra-wave sediment transport on sandy beaches using a non-hydrostatic, wave-resolving model. Ocean Dynamics , 1–20.

McCall, R., Masselink, G., Poate, T., Roelvink, J., Almeida, L., 2015. Modelling the morphodynamics of gravel beaches during storms with XBeach-G. Coastal Engineering 103, 52–66.

Meyer-Peter, E., Müller, R., 1948. Formulas for bed-load transport, in: IAHSR 2nd meeting, Stockholm, appendix 2, IAHR.

O’Donoghue, T., Kikkert, G.A., Pokrajac, D., Dodd, N., Briganti, R., 2016. Intra-swash hydrodynamics and sediment flux for dambreak swash on coarse-grained beaches. Coastal Engineering 112, 113–130.

Postacchini, M., Brocchini, M., Mancinelli, A., Landon, M., 2012. A multi-purpose, intra-wave, shallow water hydro-morphodynamic solver. Advances in Water Resources 38, 13–26.

Pritchard, D., Hogg, A.J., 2003. Suspended sediment transport under seiches in circular and elliptical basins. Coastal Engineering 49(1-2), 43–70.

Ruffini, G., Briganti, R., Alsina, J., Brocchini, M., Dodd, N., McCall, R., 2020. Numerical modelling of flow and bed evolution of bichromatic wave groups on an intermediate beach using non-hydrostatic XBeach. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 146(1).

Smagorinsky, J., 1963. General circulation experiments with the primitive equations: I. the basic experiment. Monthly weather review 91(3), 99–164.

Smit, P., Stelling, G., Roelvink, D., van Thiel de Vries, J., McCall, R., van Dongeren, A., Zwinkels, C., Jacobs, R., 2010. XBeach: Non-hydrostatic model. Delft University of Technology and Deltares .

Smit, P., Zijlema, M., Stelling, G., 2013. Depth-induced wave breaking in a non-hydrostatic, near-shore wave model. Coastal Engineering 76, 1–16.

Soulsby, R., 1997. Dynamics of marine sands: a manual for practical applications. Thomas Telford.

Van Rijn, L., Ruessink, G., Grasmeijer, B., van der Werf, J., Ribberink, J., 2007. Wave-related transport and nearshore morphology, in: Coastal Sediments’ 07, pp. 1–14.

Van Rijn, L.C., 2007. Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. i: Initiation of motion, bed roughness, and bed-load transport. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering 133(6), 649–667.

Van Rooijen, A., Reniers, A., Van Thiel de Vries, J., Blenkinsopp, C., McCall, R., 2012. Modeling swash zone sediment transport at truc vert beach, in: ICCE 2012: Proceedings of the 33rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Santander, Spain, 1-6 July 2012, Coastal Engineering Research Council.

Van Thiel de Vries, J., 2008. Dune erosion during storm surges. Ph.D. thesis. Technical University of Delft.

Xiao, H., Young, Y.L., Prévost, J.H., 2010. Hydro-and morpho-dynamic modeling of breaking solitary waves over a fine sand beach. part ii: Numerical simulation. Marine Geology 269(3-4), 119–131.

Young, Y.L., Xiao, H., Maddux, T., 2010. Hydro-and morpho-dynamic modeling of breaking solitary waves over a fine sand beach. part i: Experimental study. Marine Geology 269(3-4), 107–118.

Zhang, Q., Liu, P.L.F., 2008. A numerical study of swash flows generated by bores. Coastal Engineering 55(12), 1113–1134.

Zhu, F., Dodd, N., 2015. The morphodynamics of a swash event on an erodible beach. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 762, 110–140.

Zijlema, M., Stelling, G., Smit, P., 2011. Swash: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters. Coastal Engineering 58(10), 992–1012.

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.