MEASUREMENTS OF THE STEADY CURRENTS OUTSIDE THE SURF ZONE
Proceedings of the 32nd International Conference
PDF

Keywords

sea waves
steady currents
velocity measurements

How to Cite

Scandura, P., Capodicasa, E., & Foti, E. (2011). MEASUREMENTS OF THE STEADY CURRENTS OUTSIDE THE SURF ZONE. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(32), currents.49. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.49

Abstract

The results of an experimental study concerning with the measurements of the steady current induced by sea waves approaching the coast are reported. The experiments have been performed in a large wave flume in order to minimize the scale effects. The measurements have been carried out at four different stations along the wave flume by using Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters. The results show that the mean velocity profiles are significantly influenced by the wave period. In particular, when the period reduces the mean velocity gradient close to the wave trough increases. The trend of the velocity profiles is different from that predicted by the theory and mostly reported by other experiments. However, experimental results are reported in literature which are in a qualitative agreement with the present ones.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.49
PDF

References

Bagnold, R.A. 1947. Sand movement by waves: some small scale experiments with sand of very low density, J. Inst. Civil Engrs., 27,447-469. http://dx.doi.org/10.1680/ijoti.1947.13608

Dean, R.G., and R.A. Dalrymple. 1993. Water waves mechanics for engineers and scientists, World Scientific.

Holmedal, L.E., and D. Myrhaugh. 2009. Wave-induced steady streaming, mass transport and net sediment transport in rough turbulent ocean bottom boundary layers, Cont. Shelf Res., 29, 911-926. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2009.01.012

Hwung, H.H., and C. Lin. 1990. The mass transport of waves propagating on a sloping bottom, In Proc. 22 nd

Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 544-556, Reston.

Longuet-Higgins, M.S. 1953. Mass transport in water waves, Proc. R. Soc. A, 245, 535-581.

Monismith, S.G., Cowen, E.A., Nepf, H.M., Magnaudet, J., and L. Thais. 2007. Laboratory observations of mean flows under surface gravity waves, J. Fluid Mech., 573, 131-147. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112006003594

Nadaoka, K., and T. Kondoh. 1982. Laboratory measurements of velocity field structure in the surf zone by LDV, Coast. Eng. Japan, 25, 125-145.

Putrevu, U., and I. Svendsen. 1993. Vertical structure of the undertow outside the surf zone, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 98(C12).http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/93JC02399

Russel, R.C.H., and J.D.C. Osorio. 1958. An experimental investigation of drift profiles in a closed channel, In Proc. 6 th Coastal Engng Conf., ASCE, 171.

Scandura, P. 2007. Steady streaming in a turbulent oscillating boundary layer, J. Fluid Mech., 571, 265-280. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112006002965

Sleath, J.F.A. 1984. Measurements of mass transport over a rough bed, In Proc. 19 th Coastal Engng C27, 1149-1160.

Stokes, G.G. 1847. On the theory of oscillatory waves, Trans. Camb. Phil. Soc., 8, 441-455.

Swan, C. 1990. Convection within an experimental wave flume, J. Hydr. Res, 28(3), 273-282. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00221689009499069

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.