Abstract
Coastal communities are growing globally, promoted by the ocean’s abundant opportunity for food, recreation, tourism, and green energy. Erosion and accretion along the coast significantly affect the safety of these communities and longevity of coastal infrastructure. To better predict rates of erosion and accretion, sediment transport models and active-bed thickness prediction techniques are of particular importance. Two dimensionless parameters, the Shields and Ursell parameters, are often used to predict rates of sediment transport and wave linearity. The goal of this project is to analyze sediment movement in a laboratory wave flume using particle image velocimetry (PIV). From the analysis we estimate the dimensionless parameters and instantaneous active-bed thickness to predict volumetric sediment transport rates as waves propagate shoreward.References
Adrian, R. J., and J. Westerweel. 2011. Particle image velocimetry. Cambridge University Press.
Barnes, D., C. Tarragon, L. Davoli, and E. Palmieri. 2015. Coastal Vulnerability Analysis Along the
Coast of Pescara (Adriatic Sea, Central Italy). Coastal and beach erosion: Processes, adaptation
strategies and environmental impacts. Nova Science Publishers, Inc.
Buffington, J. M. 1999. The legend of A. F. shields. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, 125(4), 376–
https://doi.org/10.1061/(asce)0733-9429(1999)125:4(376)
Dean, R. G., and R.A. Dalrymple. 2002. Coastal processes with engineering applications. Cambridge
University Press.
Dingemans, M. W. 1997. Water wave propagation over uneven bottoms. World scientific.
Dronkers, J. 2005. Dynamics of coastal systems (Vol. 25, Ser. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering).
World Scientific.
Fenton, J. D. 1998. The Cnoidal Theory of Water Waves. J. B. Herbich (Ed.), Developments in
Offshore Engineering (pp. 1–32).
Hedges, T. S. 1995. Regions of validity of analytical wave theories. Proceedings of the Institution of
Civil Engineers - Water, Maritime and Energy, 112(2), 111–114.
https://doi.org/10.1680/iwtme.1995.27656
Mariño-Tapia, I. J., P.E. Russell, T.J. O'Hare, M.A. Davidson, and D.A. Huntley. 2007. Cross-shore
sediment transport on natural beaches and its relation to sandbar migration patterns: 1. field
observations and derivation of a transport parameterization. Journal of Geophysical Research,
(C3). https://doi.org/10.1029/2005jc002893
Masselink, G., M.J. Austin, T.J. O'Hare, and P.E. Russell. 2007. Geometry and dynamics of wave
ripples in the nearshore zone of a coarse sandy beach. Journal of Geophysical Research, 112(C10).
https://doi.org/10.1029/2006jc003839
Ostrowski, R. 2018. Influence of wave shape on sediment transport in coastal regions. Archives of
Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics, 65(2), 73–90. https://doi.org/10.1515/heem-
-0006
Raffel, M., C.E. Willert, F. Scarano, C.J. Kähler, S.T. Wereley, and J. Kompenhans. 2018. Particle
image velocimetry: A practical guide. Springer.
Roulund, A., J. Sutherland, D. Todd, and J. Sterner. 2016. Parametric equations for shields parameter
and wave orbital velocity in combined current and irregular waves. Scour and Erosion.
https://doi.org/10.1201/9781315375045-37
Shields, A. 1936. ‘‘Application of similarity principles and turbulence research to bed-load
movement.’’Hydrodynamics Laboratory Publ.No. 167, W. P. Ott, and J. C. van Uchelen, trans.,
U.S. Dept. of Agr.,Soil Conservation Service Cooperative Laboratory, California Institute of
Technology, Pasadena, Calif.
Stachurska, B., and R. Staroszczyk. 2019. Laboratory study of suspended sediment dynamics over a
mildly sloping sandy seabed. Oceanologia, 61(3), 350–367.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceano.2019.01.006
Svendsen, I. A. 2006. Introduction to nearshore hydrodynamics. World Scientific Publishing.
Thielicke, W., and R. Sonntag. 2021. Particle image velocimetry for MATLAB: Accuracy and
enhanced algorithms in PIVlab. Journal of Open Research Software, 9(1), 12.
https://doi.org/10.5334/jors.334
Thielicke, W., and E.J. Stamhuis. 2014. PIVlab – towards user-friendly, affordable and accurate digital
particle image velocimetry in Matlab. Journal of Open Research Software, 2.
https://doi.org/10.5334/jors.bl
Valdenarro, R. B. 2020. Population geography. Delve Publishing.
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
Copyright (c) 2023 Caroline Hoch, Robert J. Weaver, Bret Webb, Don Resio, Nikole Ward, Caleb Lodge, Olivia Hopkin, Ruby Bouhassira, Nezamoddin N. Kachouie