SHORELINE VARIATION OF AN ISLAND IN RESPONSE TO CHANGE IN WAVE DIRECTION

Takaaki Uda; Yasuhito Noshi; Takuya Yokota; Masato Sekine

doi:10.9753/icce.v37.papers.11

No. 37 (2022), Full Length Papers

No. 37 (2022)

SHORELINE VARIATION OF AN ISLAND IN RESPONSE TO CHANGE IN WAVE DIRECTION

Full Length Papers

Published 2023-09-01

Takaaki Uda
Yasuhito Noshi
Takuya Yokota
Masato Sekine

Takaaki Uda

Yasuhito Noshi

Takuya Yokota

Masato Sekine

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SHORELINE VARIATION OF AN ISLAND IN RESPONSE TO CHANGE IN WAVE DIRECTION . (2023). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 37, papers.11. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.papers.11

Abstract

We selected Komaka Island located 3 km offshore of Chinen Peninsula in Okinawa and surrounded by coral reef as a study site, and we conducted field observation of the shoreline changes on this coral cay on 13 July 2019, and the shoreline changes were investigated using satellite images. The shape of the sandbar behind the island was classified into one of three types (circular, slender oval, and elongated oval). Then, the changes in the sandbar were numerically simulated using the modified BG model (a model for predicting 3-D beach changes based on Bagnold’s concept). In this model, waves were assumed to be incident from every direction so as to focus at the center of the circular island. Under this condition, the distribution of the wave diffraction coefficient Kd was assumed, taking the wave-sheltering effect of the cay into account, and longshore sand transport was assumed to be induced owing to the change in Kd in the direction normal to the wave direction. The results of numerical simulation explained well the deformation of the sandbar on Komaka Island.

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References

Japan Meteorological Agency. 2021.

https://www.jma-net.go.jp/naha-airport/tokusei/roah/windrose.html

Miyahara, S., Uda, T., and Serizawa, M. 2013. Prediction of topographic changes of a circular sandy island using BG model, Asian and Pacific Coasts 2013, Proc. 7th International Conf., 17–23.

Ozasa, H. and Brampton, A. H. 1980. Model for predicting the shoreline evolution of beaches backed by seawalls, Coastal Eng., Vol. 4, 47–64.

Uda, T., Serizawa, M., and Miyahara, S. 2017. Seasonal movement of sand spits on a coral cay of Embudu Village Island in the Maldives, Proc. 9th Int. Conf. on Asian and Pacific Coasts (APAC2017), 467–478.

Serizawa, M., Uda, T., and Miyahara, S. 2014. Interaction between two circular sandy islands on flat shallow seabed owing to waves, Proc. 34th ICCE, 1–12.

https://icce-ojs-tamu.tdl.org/icce/index.php/icce/article/view/7106/pdf_410

Uda, T., Serizawa, M., and Miyahara, S. 2018. Morphodynamic model for predicting beach changes based on Bagnold’s concept and its applications, INTEC, London, UK, 188 pp.

https://www.intechopen.com/books/morphodynamic-model-for-predicting-beach-changes-based-on-bagnold-s-concept-and-its-applications

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

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SHORELINE VARIATION OF AN ISLAND IN RESPONSE TO CHANGE IN WAVE DIRECTION

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