THE OCCURRENCE OF EXTREME WAVE HEIGHT IN A TWO-DIMENSIONAL RANDOM WAVEFIELD IN COASTAL AREA

Zuorui Lyu; Nobuhito Mori; Hiroaki Kashima; Yoshimitsu Tajima

doi:10.9753/icce.v37.waves.17

No. 37 (2022), Waves

No. 37 (2022)

THE OCCURRENCE OF EXTREME WAVE HEIGHT IN A TWO-DIMENSIONAL RANDOM WAVEFIELD IN COASTAL AREA

Waves

Published 2023-09-01

Zuorui Lyu
Nobuhito Mori
Hiroaki Kashima
Yoshimitsu Tajima

Zuorui Lyu

Nobuhito Mori

Hiroaki Kashima

Yoshimitsu Tajima

PDF

How to Cite

THE OCCURRENCE OF EXTREME WAVE HEIGHT IN A TWO-DIMENSIONAL RANDOM WAVEFIELD IN COASTAL AREA. (2023). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 37, waves.17. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.waves.17

Abstract

As the water waves come to the coastal area, the variation in dispersion relation due to the spatial inhomogeneity brings about the deformation of the wave shape. With the local bathymetry effect, the propagation of the wave experiences a complicated evolution process, including the reflection, wave shoaling and breaking, etc. Considering the directional spreading effect and wave refraction becomes indispensable when it comes to a two-dimensional (2D) problem in the random wavefield. Mori et al. (2011) indicated that the distribution of maximum wave height in deep-water is decided by the directional dispersion. In this research, we aim to discuss the occurrence of maximum wave height in the 2D wave evolution in the coastal area. It helps to estimate better extreme events in the prevention work of coastal hazards. To simulate the 2D propagation, we develop a nonlinear model as an extension work of Lyu et al. (2021), which considers the high order harmonic interactions of irregular waves before the breaking in surf zone.

PDF

References

Mori N., Onorato M., Janssen P.A.E.M. (2011): On the estimation of the kurtosis in directional sea states for freak wave forecasting. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 41 (8), 1484-1497.

Lyu Z., Mori N., Kashima H. (2021): Freak wave in high-order weakly nonlinear wave evolution with bottom topography change, Coastal Eng., 167: 103918.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

Most read articles by the same author(s)

Hiroshi Sanuki, Tomohiro Takagawa, Yoshimitsu Tajima, Shinji Sato, ANALYSIS OF FLOODING DIRECTIONS OF THE 2011 EARTHQUAKE TOHOKU TSUNAMI , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 34 (2014): Proceedings of 34th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Seoul, Korea, 2014
Yoshimitsu Tajima, NUMERICAL STUDY ON ACCUMULATION MECHANISM OF CORAL GRAVELS AROUND BALLAST ISLAND, THE CORAL CAY OFF THE COAST OF IRIOMOTE ISLAND , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 36 (2018): Proceedings of 36th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Baltimore, Maryland, 2018
Jung-A Yang, Sooyoul Kim, Hajime Mase, Nobuhito Mori, PROJECTION OF FUTURE STORM SURGES AROUND THE KOREAN PENINSULA BASED ON LARGE ENSEMBLE CLIMATE EXPERIMENTS , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 36 (2018): Proceedings of 36th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Baltimore, Maryland, 2018
Zhongduo Zhang, Nobuki Fukui, Yu Chida, Andrew Kennedy, Nobuhito Mori, Tomohiro Yasuda, Andrew Copp, Takashi Yamamoto, SUBGRID NUMERICAL MODELING OF TSUNAMI AND STORM SURGE INUNDATION IN A COASTAL URBAN SETTING , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 36v (2020): Proceedings of virtual Conference on Coastal Engineering, 2020
Maki Chiwata, Tomoya Shimura, Nobuhito Mori, RELATION BETWEEN SHAPE OF EXTREME WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTIONS AND WEATHER SYSTEM , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 36 (2018): Proceedings of 36th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Baltimore, Maryland, 2018
Kei Ando, Kojiro Suzuki, Nobuhito Mori, COASTAL CONCRETE STRUCTURE DESIGN AGAINST DESTRUCTION BY IMPULSIVE WAVE , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 36v (2020): Proceedings of virtual Conference on Coastal Engineering, 2020
Nobuhito Mori, Tomoya Shimura, Sota Nakajo, Tomohiro Yasuda, Hajime Mase, MULTI-MODEL ENSEMBLE PROJECTION OF FUTURE COASTAL CLIMATE CHANGE , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 33 (2012): Proceedings of 33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Santander, Spain, 2012
Yoshimitsu Tajima, IMAGE-BASED FIELD OBSERVATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES ALONG THE SWASH ZONE , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 34 (2014): Proceedings of 34th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Seoul, Korea, 2014
Nobuhito Mori, Takashi Yasuda, ORTHONORMAL WAVELET ANALYSIS FOR DEEP-WATER BREAKING WAVES , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 24 (1994): Proceedings of 24th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kobe, Japan, 1994.
Takashi Yasuda, Nobuhito Mori, Kazunori Ito, FREAK WAVES IN UNIDIRECTIONAL WAVE TRAINS AND THEIR PROPERTIES , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 23 (1992): Proceedings of 23rd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy, 1992.

<< < 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 > >>

THE OCCURRENCE OF EXTREME WAVE HEIGHT IN A TWO-DIMENSIONAL RANDOM WAVEFIELD IN COASTAL AREA

How to Cite

Download Citation

Abstract

References

Most read articles by the same author(s)