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Abstract
Regarding the wave climate and urbanisation in the bask country, several coastal structure in that area are submitted to extreme wave conditions that can be destructive. While wave transformation over low to mild sloping beaches have been widely studied, shoaling, breaking, reflection and dissipation over steep and very rough slopes are much less documented, Van der Meer (1992) and Dodet et al. (2018). With slightly different values some coral reef present similar slopes and roughness and have been the object of several insitu and numerical studies Buckley(2015), Sous (2020). During fall 2018 a measurement campaign was conducted close to the Artha breakwater. Offshore spectral parameters were measured at a directional wave buoy in 20 m water depth. A directional currentmeter was installed at the foot of the block armor unit at 15m deep while five pressure sensors were attached directly on the concrete blocks to obtain a complete cross-shore survey of wave transformation over the armor. In addition, high frequency impact pressure measurements are carried out on the dike wall together with punctual video recordings of wave impacts. The whole setup therefore provides a unique comprehensive in-situ dataset of wave transformation over a coastal breakwater.References
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Dodet, Leckler, Sous, Ardhuin, Filipot & Suanez (2018): Wave runup over steep rocky cliffs. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 123(10), 7185-7205.
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Copyright (c) 2023 Pierre-Antoine Poncet, Damien Sous , Stépane Abadie