Abstract
Both magnitude and directions of infragravity (IG) waves are essential information for accurate hindcast/prediction of coastal hazard due to stormy waves (e.g., coastal inundation and beach erosion). However, conventional reconstruction methods of directional spectra relying on linear wave theory are not applicable to IG waves which are composed of free (linear) and bound (nonlinear) components. This study proposes a novel method to reconstruct directional spectra of IG waves and presents diverse wave directions of free IG waves during stormy conditions.References
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Matsuba, Roelvink, Reniers, Rijnsdorp, Shimozono (2022): Reconstruction of Directional Spectra of Infragravity Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 127(7), 1–20.
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Copyright (c) 2023 Yoshinao Matsuba, Dano Roelvink, Ad J.H.M. Reniers, Dirk P. Rijnsdorp, Takenori Shimozono