Abstract
This study aims to investigate physical mechanisms of locally concentrated nearshore hydrodynamic forces under interactive fields of waves and currents on abruptly changing coastal bathymetry. Laboratory experiments were first performed to represent such phenomena and a newly developed monitoring system based on image processing techniques successfully captured the local concentrations of wave fields as quantitative high-resolution data sets. Numerical experiments were then performed to investigate the physical mechanisms of the observed features. It was found that, among the other various possible factors, slowly varying wave-induced nearshore currents have one of the most significant impacts on local concentrations of waves around the abruptly changing bathymetry.References
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