THE EFFECT OF WAVE OBLIQUITY ON DUNE EROSION: A FIELD EXPERIMENT

Paul van Wiechen; Jantien Rutten; Marion Tissier; Sierd de Vries; Ryan Mieras; Katherine Anarde; Stefan Aarninkhof

doi:10.9753/icce.v37.management.70

No. 37 (2022), Coastal Management, Environment, and Risk

No. 37 (2022)

THE EFFECT OF WAVE OBLIQUITY ON DUNE EROSION: A FIELD EXPERIMENT

Coastal Management, Environment, and Risk

Published 2023-09-01

Paul van Wiechen
Jantien Rutten
Marion Tissier
Sierd de Vries
Ryan Mieras
Katherine Anarde
Stefan Aarninkhof

Paul van Wiechen

Jantien Rutten

Marion Tissier

Sierd de Vries

Ryan Mieras

Katherine Anarde

Stefan Aarninkhof

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How to Cite

THE EFFECT OF WAVE OBLIQUITY ON DUNE EROSION: A FIELD EXPERIMENT. (2023). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 37, management.70. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.management.70

Abstract

Storm conditions can lead to excessive dune erosion with potential floods as a consequence. Barrier islands and low-lying countries protected by dunes are especially vulnerable to dune erosion. To properly assess the risks these areas face, a clear understanding of the physical processes during dune erosion is required. One of such processes is the effect of wave obliquity on sediment transport in the surf zone. Classic dune erosion models assume that dune erosion volumes decrease under oblique wave attack, because the time-averaged cross-shore undertow decreases in magnitude and with that offshore directed sediment transport decreases (Steetzel, 1993). More recent process-based erosion models predict an increase in erosion quantities, because the generated longshore currents increase surf zone sediment concentrations, and with that offshore directed sediment transport increases (Den Heijer, 2013). The main objective of this study is to analyse the effect of wave obliquity on dune erosion through a field experiment, by quantifying the effect of the decreasing undertow but increasing alongshore current on sediment concentrations in the surf zone.

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References

Den Heijer, C. (2013). The role of bathymetry, wave obliquity and coastal curvature in dune erosion prediction. Ph.D. thesis.

Steetzel, H. J. (1993). Cross-Shore Transport during Storm Surges. Ph.D. thesis.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

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THE EFFECT OF WAVE OBLIQUITY ON DUNE EROSION: A FIELD EXPERIMENT

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