EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF SOLITARY WAVE EVOLUTION OVER A 3D SHALLOW SHELF

Lynett, P. J., Swigler, D., Son, S., Bryant, D., & Socolofsky, S. (2011). EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF SOLITARY WAVE EVOLUTION OVER A 3D SHALLOW SHELF. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(32), currents.1. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.1

Abstract

A laboratory experiment was performed to investigate the three-dimensional turbulence and kinematic properties that develop due to a breaking solitary propagating over an irregular shallow water bathymetry. The bathymetry consisted of a deep water region connected to a shallow shelf via a relatively steep slope. The offshore boundary of the shelf break varied in the longshore direction, such that the shelf had a triangular shape in plan view, with the widest part of the shelf along the basin centerline. Free surface elevations and fluid velocities were measured using wave gauges and three-dimensional acoustic-Doppler velocimeters (ADVs), respectively. From the free surface elevations the evolution and runup of the wave was revealed; while from the ADVs, the velocity and turbulent energy was determined and specific turbulent events and coherent structures were identified. It was found that significant shoaling was confined to areas with gentler sloping bathymetry near the basin side walls and the runup varied weakly in the alongshore direction. The runup was characterized by a refraction-generated jetting mechanism caused by the convergence of water mass near the basin centerline. The jetting mechanism caused the greatest cross-shore velocities to be located near the basin centerline. The greatest turbulent events were well correlated to borefronts, of which there were four, caused by the leading wave, beach reflections, and shelf-trapped oscillations. Along the shelf break, a large, shallow-water eddy developed which was found to have a peculiar three-dimensional flow field, where maximum velocity components were found at mid-depth.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v32.currents.1

PDF

References

Cea, L., Puertas, J., Pena, L., 2007. Velocity measurements on highly turbulent free surface flow using ADV. Experiments in Fluids 42, 333-348. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00348-006-0237-3

Grilli, S.T., Subramanya, R., Svendsen, I.A., Veeramony, J., 1994. Shoaling of solitary waves on plane beaches. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 120 (6), 609-628. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(1994)120:6(609)

Hsiao, S.C., Hsu, T.W., Lin, T.C., Chang, Y.H., 2008. On the evolution and run-up of breaking solitary waves on a mild sloping beach. Coastal Engineering 55, 975-988. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.03.002

Lin, C., Hwung, H.H., 1992. External and internal flow fields of plunging breakers. Experiments in Fluids 12, 229-237. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/BF00187300

Mathieu, J., Scott, J., 2000. An Introduction to Turbulent Flow. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, United Kingdom.

Synolakis, C.E. 1987. The runup of solitary waves. J. Fluid Mech. 185 (1987), pp. 523-545. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S002211208700329X

Tennekes, H., Lumley, J.L., 1972. A First Course in Turbulence. MIT Press, Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Ting, F.C.K., Kirby, J.T., 1994. Observation of undertow and turbulence in a laboratory surf zone. Coastal Engineering 24, 51-80. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(94)90026-4

Ting, F.C.K., Kirby, J.T., 1995. Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a strong plunging breaker. Coastal Engineering 24, 177-204. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(94)00036-W

Ting, F.C.K., 2006. Large-scale turbulence under a solitary wave. Coastal Engineering 53, 441-462. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.11.004

Ting, F.C.K., 2008. Large-scale turbulence under a solitary wave: Part 2 forms and evolution of coherent structures. Coastal Engineering 55, 522-536. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.02.018

Socolofsky, S.A., Jirka, G.H., 2004. Large-scale flow structures and stability in shallow flows. Journal of Environmental Engineering Science 3,451-462.http://dx.doi.org/10.1139/s04-032

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

Most read articles by the same author(s)

Patrick J. Lynett, FOREWORD: Proceedings of the 35th International Conference , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 35 (2016): Proceedings of 35th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Antalya, Turkey, 2016
Sangyoung Son, Patrick Lynett, NUMERICAL STUDY OF MORPHOLOGICAL CHANGES BY FAR-FIELD TSUNAMI IMPACTS , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 34 (2014): Proceedings of 34th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Seoul, Korea, 2014
Patrick J. Lynett, FOREWORD: Proceedings of the 34th International Conference , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 34 (2014): Proceedings of 34th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Seoul, Korea, 2014
Patrick J. Lynett, FOREWORD: Proceedings of the virtual International Conference , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 36v (2020): Proceedings of virtual Conference on Coastal Engineering, 2020
Jung-A Yang, Sooyoul Kim, Sangyoung Son, Hajime Mase, Nobuhito Mori, UNCERTAINTY ASSESSMENT OF FUTURE CHANGE PROJECTION TO TYPHOON PROPERTIES AND MAXIMUM STORM SURGE HEIGHT DEPENDING OF FUTURE SEA SURFACE TEMPERATURE AND GREENHOUSE GAS EMISSION SCENARIOS , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 36v (2020): Proceedings of virtual Conference on Coastal Engineering, 2020
Patrick J. Lynett, FOREWORD: Proceedings of the 36th International Conference , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 36 (2018): Proceedings of 36th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Baltimore, Maryland, 2018
Patrick J. Lynett, Jane M Smith, Foreword: Proceedings of the 33rd International Conference , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 33 (2012): Proceedings of 33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Santander, Spain, 2012
Jane McKee Smith, Patrick J. Lynett, Foreword: Proceedings of the 32nd International Conference , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 32 (2010): Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Shanghai, China, 2010.
Patrick J. Lynett, Arturo Jimenez Martinez, A PROBABILISTIC APPROACH FOR THE WAVES GENERATED BY A SUBMARINE LANDSLIDE , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 33 (2012): Proceedings of 33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Santander, Spain, 2012
Aykut Ayca, Patrick J. Lynett, DEBRIS AND VESSEL TRANSPORT DUE TO TSUNAMI CURRENTS IN PORTS AND HARBORS , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 36 (2018): Proceedings of 36th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Baltimore, Maryland, 2018

1 2 3 > >>

EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF SOLITARY WAVE EVOLUTION OVER A 3D SHALLOW SHELF

Supplementary Files

Keywords

How to Cite

Download Citation

Abstract

References

Most read articles by the same author(s)