Abstract
Breaking waves generated by focusing of transient wave packets have been analyzed. By a comparison of video data and gauge measurements the threshold frequency for the use of the PTM as a breaking criterion is derived. The present result is slightly higher than the original value of Zimmermann & Seymour (2002) for spilling breakers, but confirms the results of Irschik & Oumeraci (2006). Additionally the use of the zero down-cross period Tz instead of the peak period TP is investigated. Both definitions lead for the present conditions with plunging breakers to almost identical results.References
Bonmarin, P. 1989. Geometric properties of deep-water breaking waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 209, No. 12, pp. 405-433. http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112089003162
Duncan, J.H.; Wallendorf, L.A.; Johnson, B. 1987. An experimental investigation of the kinematics of breaking waves. IAHR Seminar wave analysis and generation in laboratory basins; pp. 411-422.
Huang, N.E.; Long, S.R.; Tung, C.C.; Donelan, M.A.; Yuan, Y.; Lai, R.J. 1992. The local properties of ocean waves by the phase-time method. Geophysical Research Letters, Vol. 19, No. 7, pp. 685-688. http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/92GL00670
Irschik, K., and H. Oumeraci. 2006. Effect of breaker types on breaking wave loads on a slender vertical and inclined pile. Proceedings of 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2006, ASCE, 4520-4531.
Kamphuis, J.W. 1991. Incipient wave breaking, Coastal Engineering, Vol. 15, pp. 185-203. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(91)90002-X
Lader, P.F.; Grytoyr, G.; Myrhaug, D.; Peterrsen, B. 1998. Breaking wave geometry with emphasis on steepness and curvature. Ocean Wave Kinematics, Dynamics ans Loads on Structures; p. 281-288.
Wienke, J., and H. Oumeraci. 2005. Breaking wave impact force on a vertical and inclined slender pile - theoretical and large-scale model investigations. Coastal Engineering, 52 (5), 435-462. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2004.12.008
Zimmermann, C.-A., and R. Seymour. 2002. Detection of Breaking in a Deep Water Wave Record. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE, 128, 2, 72-78. http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2002)128:2(72)