No. 6 (1957), Conference Proceedings
No. 6 (1957)

DETERMINATION OF THE WAVE HEIGHT IN NATURE FROM MODEL TESTS SUPPLEMENTED BY CALCULATION

Conference Proceedings
Published 1957-01-29
J. G.H.R. Diephuis
Hydraulics Laboratory Delft, Holland.
J. G. Gerritze
Hydraulics Laboratory Delft, Holland.
PDF

Keywords

wave refraction
model studies
energy balance

How to Cite

DETERMINATION OF THE WAVE HEIGHT IN NATURE FROM MODEL TESTS SUPPLEMENTED BY CALCULATION. (1957). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(6), 12. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v6.12
ACM ACS APA ABNT Chicago Harvard IEEE MLA Turabian Vancouver AMA

Download Citation

Endnote/Zotero/Mendeley (RIS) BibTeX

Abstract

This paper deals with the problem of determining the wave characteristics in shallow water from those in deep water. In general this can be done by means of a refraction calculation. If the sea bottom topography is too irregular the height of the waves can be determined by means of a small-scale refraction model. In both cases, however, some additional effects have to be taken into account, viz. the influence of the bottom friction and the influence of the wind.
PDF
Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.