ON WAVE DEFORMATION AFTER BREAKING

Toru Sawaragi; Koichiro Iwata

doi:10.9753/icce.v14.27

No. 14 (1974), Conference Proceedings

No. 14 (1974)

ON WAVE DEFORMATION AFTER BREAKING

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v14.27

Published 1974-01-29

Toru Sawaragi⁺⁻
Koichiro Iwata⁺⁻

Toru Sawaragi

Osaka University

Koichiro Iwata

Osaka University

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Keywords

wave deformation
wave breaking

How to Cite

Sawaragi, T., & Iwata, K. (1974). ON WAVE DEFORMATION AFTER BREAKING. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(14), 27. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v14.27

Abstract

Waves will dissipate their energy rapidly after breaking. In this paper, the three factors , (i) formation of a horizontal roller,(11) bottom friction, and (in) turbulence with air entrainment, which will contribute to the energy dissipation, are dealt with experimentally and theoretically The horizontal roller formed by a plunging breaker is approximated as a Rankme-type vortex by experiments, and it is calculated that 15$-30%of wave energy is dissipated due to the formation of horizontal roller alone from a breaking point to a point of the roller disappearance. A bottom shear stress due to a breaker is measured by the shear meter deviced by the authors and it is clarified that the energy dissipation due to bottom friction is a little Mam part of the energy dissipation is taken to be caused by the turbulence with air entrainment. It is indicated that an incident monocromatic wave is transformed into a higher frequency wave due to the turbulence. Furthermore, a new basic equation for breaking waves with a turbulence term expressed by a Reynolds stress is presented The theoretical curves computed numerically have a consistent agreement with the experimental results.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v14.27

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Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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ON WAVE DEFORMATION AFTER BREAKING

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