PHYSICS AND MATHEMATICS OF WAVES IN COASTAL ZONES

H. Lundgren

doi:10.9753/icce.v15.50

No. 15 (1976), Conference Proceedings

No. 15 (1976)

PHYSICS AND MATHEMATICS OF WAVES IN COASTAL ZONES

Conference Proceedings

Published 1976-01-29

H. Lundgren⁺⁻

H. Lundgren

Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering, Technical University of Denmark

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Keywords

coastal zone
wave physics
wave mathematics

How to Cite

PHYSICS AND MATHEMATICS OF WAVES IN COASTAL ZONES. (1976). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(15), 50. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v15.50

Abstract

This paper presents a discussion of four methods available for the computation of small amplitude periodic waves in coastal zones of arbitrary topography. With no reflections (or reflection from a single structure) the methods that proceed in space (Refraction and Propagation) or time (TJLmestep) seem the natural ones from a physical point of view. With repeated reflections, recourse must he taken to the solution of an Elliptic "boundary value problem. - It is suggested that a P-method based on (energy) flux lines and energy fronts be developed for cases where the R-methods give crossing orthogonals.

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PHYSICS AND MATHEMATICS OF WAVES IN COASTAL ZONES

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