WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SURF ZONE

I.A. Svendsen; P.A. Madsen; J. Buhr Hansen

doi:10.9753/icce.v16.29

No. 16 (1978), Conference Proceedings

No. 16 (1978)

WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SURF ZONE

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v16.29

Published 1978-01-29

I.A. Svendsen⁺⁻
P.A. Madsen⁺⁻
J. Buhr Hansen⁺⁻

I.A. Svendsen

Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering (ISVA), Technical University of Denmark

P.A. Madsen

Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering (ISVA), Technical University of Denmark

J. Buhr Hansen

Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering (ISVA), Technical University of Denmark

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Keywords

surf zone
wave characteristics

How to Cite

Svendsen, I., Madsen, P., & Hansen, J. B. (1978). WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SURF ZONE. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(16), 29. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v16.29

Abstract

The equations describing conservation of mass, momentum and energy in a turbulent free surface flow are derived for a controle volume extending over the whole depth. The effect of the turbulent surface oscillations are discussed but neglected in the following analysis, where the equations are applied to the energy balance in a surf zone wave motion. This leads to results for the wave height variation and the velocity of propagation. The results cannot be reconciled completely with measurements and the concluding discussion is aimed at revealing how the model can be improved.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v16.29

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Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN THE SURF ZONE

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