VELOCITY AND PRESSURE FIELD OF SPILLING BREAKERS
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Keywords

spilling breaker
breaking waves
velocity field
pressure field

How to Cite

Stive, M. (1980). VELOCITY AND PRESSURE FIELD OF SPILLING BREAKERS. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(17), 33. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v17.33

Abstract

The internal velocity and pressure fields of quasi-steady spilling breaking waves have been investigated experimentally. The internal flow fields are shown to be in qualitative agreement with a model proposed by Peregrine and Svendsen (1978). Furthermore a quantitative comparison is made with nonbreaking wave theories. Measurements of the pressure field are presented, and interpreted semi-quantitatively using the vertical momentum balance. Finally, it is shown how the integral properties can be obtained and analysed.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v17.33
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