BEACH RESPONSE TO VARIATIONS IN BREAKER HEIGHT
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Keywords

beach response
breaker height
breaking waves

How to Cite

Short, A. (1980). BEACH RESPONSE TO VARIATIONS IN BREAKER HEIGHT. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(17), 62. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v17.62

Abstract

The breaker wave height required to produce a particular beach-surfzone morphology is examined for micro-tidal, medium to fine sand beaches. Waves >2.5m produce dissipative beach systems with wide surfzones and shore parallel bar/s and channel/s. Breakers between 1 and 2.5m result in rip circulation and associated rhythmic morphology (crescentic bars, rip channels, megacusps, etc). Low waves (
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v17.62
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