SWASH ON A NATURAL BEACH
PDF

Keywords

swash
natural beach
beach swash
field measurement

How to Cite

Mizuguchi, M. (1984). SWASH ON A NATURAL BEACH. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(19), 46. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v19.46

Abstract

A field measurement was conducted in order to clarify the swash motion on a natural beach. It is found on this particular beach, which had a rather steep foreshore slope, that cross spectra calculated between the surface elevations, onshore velocities and the swash agree very well with those given by linear long two-dimensional standing wave theory in the lower frequency region than a certain value. This finding together with the observed f~ (f; frequency) high frequency saturation in swash spectra encourages a partial reflection model to describe the fluid motion in the inner surf zone, including the swash. The model developed shows a good agreement with the observed results, in which being employed an analogy to regular waves for the criticality of wave reflection. This model makes it possible to predict the swash spectrum for a given incident wave spectra and a given beach profile, as far as wave breaking takes place on a foreshore slope.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v19.46
PDF
Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.