A NUMERICAL MODEL FOR REFRACTION OF LINEAR AND CNOIDAL WAVES
PDF

Keywords

cnoidal waves
linear waves
numerical model
refraction

How to Cite

A NUMERICAL MODEL FOR REFRACTION OF LINEAR AND CNOIDAL WAVES. (1984). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(19), 76. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v19.76

Abstract

A numerical model for refraction of linear and cnoidal waves over an arbitrary bottom is presented. The model, which is based on the ray theory of refraction (11), utilizes linear theory in deep and intermediate water and cnoidal theory in shallow water. The model permits one to determine nearshore wave properties using a nonlinear wave theory. Nearshore wave properties such as wave height, celerity, and wave angle determined using the linear-cnoidal refraction model may vary considerably from those determined using a linear refraction model. In general, cnoidal waves refract less, travel faster, and shoal higher than linear waves. This result can have a considerable effect on coastal engineering design, particularly in the areas of coastal structure design and longshore transport computations.
PDF
Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.