Keywords
long period waves
beach foreshore
foreshore response
beach foreshore
foreshore response
How to Cite
Howd, P., & Holman, R. (1984). BEACH FORESHORE RESPONSE TO LONG-PERIOD WAVES. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(19), 132. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v19.132
Abstract
A field experiment has been carried out to test the hypothesis that infragravity and lower frequency waves influence patterns of erosion and deposition on the beach foreshore. The data show coherent fluctuations in the foreshore sediment level which can be related to low frequency wave motions. The fluctuations have heights of up to 6 cm with typical time scales of 8 to 10 minute periods. They can be characterized in two ways: by the progression of the fluctuation up the foreshore slope (landward), and by the decrease in the root-mean-square (RMS) height of the fluctuations as they progress landward. Analysis of runup time series obtained by time-lapse photography concurrent with the sediment level measurements reveals long-period waves of undetermined origin which are positively correlated with the sediment level fluctuations. This strongly suggests that the waves are responsible for forcing the sediment level fluctuations.
Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.