ON THE PARTITION OF HORIZONTAL MOMENTUM BETWEEN VELOCITY AND PRESSURE COMPONENTS THROUGH THE TRANSITION REGION OF BREAKING WAVES

David R. Basco; Takao Yamashita

doi:10.9753/icce.v21.50

No. 21 (1988), Conference Proceedings

No. 21 (1988)

ON THE PARTITION OF HORIZONTAL MOMENTUM BETWEEN VELOCITY AND PRESSURE COMPONENTS THROUGH THE TRANSITION REGION OF BREAKING WAVES

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.50

Published 1988-01-29

David R. Basco⁺⁻
Takao Yamashita⁺⁻

David R. Basco

Civil Engineering and Director of Coastal Engineering Institute, Old Dominion University

Takao Yamashita

Disaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto University

PDF

Keywords

breaking wave
transition region
horizontal momentum

How to Cite

Basco, D. R., & Yamashita, T. (1988). ON THE PARTITION OF HORIZONTAL MOMENTUM BETWEEN VELOCITY AND PRESSURE COMPONENTS THROUGH THE TRANSITION REGION OF BREAKING WAVES. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(21), 50. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.50

Abstract

When a water wave breaks, it undergoes a complicated interchange of total, depth integrated horizontal momentum between that part due to the velocity field and the part that can be assigned to the pressure distribution beneath the surface. This partition of total momentum for a strong, plunging breaker is described by a relatively crude model in which the horizontal velocity profile (over the vertical) is schematized in two layers and the pressure distribution is related to a hydrostatic distribution for the given water depth. An example calculation at four locations across the breaking transition region on a plane beach is utilized to demonstrate the principles of the model. The limitations of the approach which assumes momentum conservation in a reference frame moving with the wave celerity defined at the wave crest are presented, but await verification. The ultimate goal is a relatively simple model to predict the transition width of breaking waves (spillers, plungers and intermediate types) for plain and bar-trough beaches.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.50

PDF

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

Most read articles by the same author(s)

Abdul R. Syamsudin, Yoshito Tsuchiya, Takao Yamashita, BEACH EROSION IN KUTA BEACH, BALI AND ITS STABILIZATION , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 24 (1994): Proceedings of 24th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Kobe, Japan, 1994.
Rob A. Walker, David R. Basco, APPLICATION OF COASTAL STORM IMPULSE (COSI) PARAMETER TO PREDICT COASTAL EROSION , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 32 (2010): Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Shanghai, China, 2010.
David R. Basco, Nader Mahmoudpour, THE MODIFIED COASTAL STORM IMPULSE (COSI) PARAMETER AND QUANTIFICATION OF FRAGILITY CURVES FOR COASTAL DESIGN , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 33 (2012): Proceedings of 33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Santander, Spain, 2012
Han Soo Lee, Takao Yamashita, Tomoaki Komaguchi, Toyoaki Mishima, STORM SURGE IN SETO INLAND SEA WITH CONSIDERATION OF THE IMPACTS OF WAVE BREAKING ON SURFACE CURRENTS , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 32 (2010): Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Shanghai, China, 2010.
Takashi Okamoto, Conceição Juana Fortes, David R. Basco, BORE PROPAGATION SPEED AT THE TERMINATION OF WAVE BREAKING , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 32 (2010): Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Shanghai, China, 2010.
David R. Basco, Ib A. Svendsen, MODELING TURBULENT BORE PROPAGATION IN THE SURF ZONE , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 19 (1984): Proceedings of 19th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, Texas, 1984.
Takao Yamashita, Yoshito Tsuchiya, NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF POCKET BEACH FORMATION , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 23 (1992): Proceedings of 23rd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy, 1992.
Takao Yamashita, Hiroshi Yashioka, Shigeru Kato, Lu Ming, Chikara Shimoda, ADCP OBSERVATION OF NEARSHORE CURRENT STRUCTURE IN THE SURF ZONE , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 26 (1998): Proceedings of 26th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Copenhagen, Denmark, 1998.
David R. Basco, Douglas A. Bellomo, Cheryl Pollock, STATISTICALLY SIGNIFICANT BEACH PROFILE CHANGE WITH AND WITHOUT THE PRESENCE OF SEAWALLS , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 23 (1992): Proceedings of 23rd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Venice, Italy, 1992.
Bryan N. Jones, David R. Basco, SEAWALL EFFECTS ON HISTORICALLY RECEDING SHORELINES , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 25 (1996): Proceedings of 25th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Orlando, Florida, 1996.

1 2 3 > >>

ON THE PARTITION OF HORIZONTAL MOMENTUM BETWEEN VELOCITY AND PRESSURE COMPONENTS THROUGH THE TRANSITION REGION OF BREAKING WAVES

Keywords

How to Cite

Download Citation

Abstract

Most read articles by the same author(s)