DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WAVES ACTING ON STEEP AND GENTLE BEACHES

Kazumasa Katoh

doi:10.9753/icce.v24.%p

No. 24 (1994), Conference Proceedings

No. 24 (1994)

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WAVES ACTING ON STEEP AND GENTLE BEACHES

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v24.%25p

Published 1994-01-29

Kazumasa Katoh⁺⁻

Kazumasa Katoh

Littoral Drift Laboratory, Port and Harbour Research Institute, Ministry of Transport

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Keywords

steep beach
gentle beach

How to Cite

Katoh, K. (1994). DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WAVES ACTING ON STEEP AND GENTLE BEACHES. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(24). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v24.%p

Abstract

The physical difference of beach erosions between on the steep and on the gentle beaches has been discussed, based on the field data and the theory of generation of the infragravity waves. As a result, it is shown that the incident waves are predominant in the wave run-up phenomena on the steeper beach, while on the gentler beach the infragravity waves are predominant.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v24.%25p

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DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WAVES ACTING ON STEEP AND GENTLE BEACHES

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