NONLINEAR REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION OF SURFACE WAVES OVER ARBITRARY DEPTHS

Serdar Beji; Kazuo Nadaoka

doi:10.9753/icce.v25.%p

No. 25 (1996), Conference Proceedings

No. 25 (1996)

NONLINEAR REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION OF SURFACE WAVES OVER ARBITRARY DEPTHS

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v25.%25p

Published 1996-01-29

Serdar Beji⁺⁻
Kazuo Nadaoka⁺⁻

Serdar Beji

Department of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering, Istanbul Technical University,

Kazuo Nadaoka

Graduate School of Information Science and Engineering, Tokyo Institute of Technology

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Keywords

nonlinear waves
refraction
diffraction

How to Cite

Beji, S., & Nadaoka, K. (1996). NONLINEAR REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION OF SURFACE WAVES OVER ARBITRARY DEPTHS. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(25). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v25.%p

Abstract

A nonlinear dispersive wave model recently introduced by the authors is used for sample simulations of directional wave transformations over gently varying depths. Various forms of the generic equation are presented first, and the dispersion and nonlinear characteristics of the model are investigated analytically. Following the numerical descriptions, the experimental data for linear wave propagation over a circular shoal and for nonlinear wave propagation over a topographical lens are compared to the model predictions with satisfactory agreements. Finally, as a demonstration of the unified character of the model, the unidirectional version of the wave equation is implemented for simulating the gradual transformation of an initially second-order Stokes wave train over decreasing depth into a cnoidal wave train.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v25.%25p

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Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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NONLINEAR REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION OF SURFACE WAVES OVER ARBITRARY DEPTHS

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