DEPTH INVERSION FOR NONLINEAR WAVES SHOALING OVER A BARRED-BEACH
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Keywords

barred beach
depth inversion
nonlinear waves
shoaling

How to Cite

Grilli, S. T., & Skourup, J. (1998). DEPTH INVERSION FOR NONLINEAR WAVES SHOALING OVER A BARRED-BEACH. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(26). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v26.%p

Abstract

Characteristics of periodic wave shoaling over a barred-beach are calculated in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank. Variations of wave elevation, slopes, height, asymmetry, and celerity are discussed. Over and beyond the bar, classical highly nonlinear decomposition phenomena occur in a modulation region (MR); in shallower water, shoaling reoccurs. Depth inversion algorithms developed and calibrated for mild slopes are applied to the barred-beach. Expectedly, errors on depth prediction occur in the MR; suggestions for improvements are made.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v26.%25p
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