MODELLING WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS A FRINGING REEF USING SWASH

Marcel Zijlema

doi:10.9753/icce.v33.currents.26

No. 33 (2012), Swash, Nearshore Currents, and Long Waves

No. 33 (2012)

MODELLING WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS A FRINGING REEF USING SWASH

Swash, Nearshore Currents, and Long Waves

Published 2012-10-12

Marcel Zijlema⁺⁻

Marcel Zijlema

Delft University of Technology

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Keywords

fringing reefs
wave breaking
bottom friction
infragravity waves
runup
SWASH

How to Cite

MODELLING WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS A FRINGING REEF USING SWASH. (2012). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(33), currents.26. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.26

Abstract

This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and wave-induced setup and runup, but also on the generation and propagation of infragravity waves beyond the reef crest. Present simulations demonstrate the overall predictive capabilities of the model for a typical coral reef with steep slopes and extended reef flats.

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References

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Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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MODELLING WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS A FRINGING REEF USING SWASH

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