WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION IN CONSTANT AND FINITE DEPTHS

Sofia Caires; Marcel R.A. Van Gent

doi:10.9753/icce.v33.waves.15

No. 33 (2012), Waves

No. 33 (2012)

WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION IN CONSTANT AND FINITE DEPTHS

Waves

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.15

Published 2012-10-15

Sofia Caires⁺⁻
Marcel R.A. Van Gent⁺⁻

Sofia Caires

Deltares

Marcel R.A. Van Gent

Deltares

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Keywords

Wave height distribution
flat bottoms
depth limited
flume data
field data
waves
shallow water

How to Cite

Caires, S., & Van Gent, M. R. (2012). WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION IN CONSTANT AND FINITE DEPTHS. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(33), waves.15. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.15

Abstract

Several alternatives to the Rayleigh distribution have been proposed for describing individual wave heights in regions where depth-induced wave breaking occurs. The most widely used of these is the so-called Battjes and Groenendijk distribution. This distribution has been derived and validated in a context of a shallow water foreshore waves propagating over a gently sloping shallow region towards the shore. Its validity for waves propagating in regions with shallow flat bottoms is investigated here. It is concluded that the distribution on average underestimates (outside its range of validity) high wave height measurements in shallow flat bottoms by as much as 15%.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.waves.15

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References

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WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION IN CONSTANT AND FINITE DEPTHS

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