Abstract
A one-dimensional hydrostatic version of the XBeach model (Roelvink et al., 2009) is applied to hindcast swash morphodynamics measured during an accretive, and an erosive tide at Le Truc Vert beach (France) in early spring 2008 (Masselink et. al, 2009; Blenkinsopp et al., 2011). Swash hydrodynamics are solved by applying the nonlinear shallow water equations, and sediment transport rates are obtained from a combined intra-wave Nielsen and Bagnold type transport model. Reasonable predictions of morphological change in the swash were obtained. Nevertheless, the model underpredicts the water level setup and/or wave run-up during the accretive tide, which is hypothesized to be related to 2D-effects.References
Ahrens, J. P. 2000. The fall-velocity equation. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering (126) 99-102.http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-950X(2000)126:2(99)
Bagnold, R. A. 1966. An approach to the sediment transport problem from general physics. Prof. Paper 422-1, United States Geological Survey.
Bakhtyar, R., D.A. Barry, L. Li, D.S. Jeng & A. Yeganeh-Bakhtiary. 2009. Modeling sediment transport in the swash zone: A review. Ocean Engineering, 36(9-10), 767-783.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2009.03.003
Blenkinsopp, C. E., I. L. Turner, G. Masselink & P. E. Russell. 2011. Swash zone sediment fluxes: Field observations. Coastal Engineering, 58(1), 28-44.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2010.08.002
Fredsøe, J., & R. Deigaard. 1992. Mechanics of coastal sediment transport (Vol. 3): World Scientific.
Galappatti, R. & C. B. Vreugdenhil, 1985. A depth integrated model for suspended transport. Journal of Hydraulic Research, 23 (4), 359-377.http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00221688509499345
Gallagher, E. L., J. MacMahan, A. J. H. M. Reniers, J. Brown & E. B. Thornton. 2011. Grain size variability on a rip-channeled beach. Marine Geology (287), 43-53.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2011.06.010
Guza, R. T., E. B. Thornton, & R. A. Holman. 1984. Swash on steep and shallow beaches. Paper presented at the 19th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Houston, Texas.
Masselink, G., P. Russell, I. Turner, & C. Blenkinsopp. 2009. Net sediment transport and morphological change in the swash zone of a high-energy sandy beach from swash event to tidal cycle time scales. Marine Geology, 267(1-2), 18-35.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2009.09.003
Meyer-Peter, E., R. Muller. 1948. Formulas for bed-load transport. Proc. 2nd Congress of the Int. Ass Hydraulic Structures Research, Stockholm.
Nielsen, P. 1992. Coastal bottom boundary layers and sediment transport (Vol. 4). Singapore: World Scientific.
Nielsen, P. 2002. Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for swash zone modelling. Coastal Engineering, 45(1), 53-60.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(01)00036-9
Reniers, A.J.H.M., E.L. Gallagher, J.H. MacMahan, J.A. Brown, A.A. van Rooijen, J.S.M. van Thiel de Vries & B. van Prooijen, (submitted). Observations and modeling of steep-beach grain-size variability. Journal of Geophysical Research.
Roelvink, J. A., & M. J. F. Stive, 1989. Bar-Generating Cross-shore Flow Mechanisms on a Beach. Journal of Geophysical Research, 94(No. C4), 4785-4800.http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC094iC04p04785
Roelvink, J. A., A. J. H. M. Reniers, A. R. van Dongeren, J. S. M. van Thiel de Vries, R. T. McCall & J. Lescinski. 2009. Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands. Coastal Engineering, 56(11-12), 1133-1152.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.08.006
Sénéchal, N., F. Ardhuin, & others 2008. Qualification des modèles de houle et de morphodynamique. Proceedings of the Journées nationales Génie Côtier.
Shields, A., 1936. Anwendung der Ahnlichkeitsmechanik und Turbulenzforschung auf die Geschiebebewegung. Mitt Preuss Versuchsanstalt fur Wasserbau und Schiffbau, No 26, Berlin.
Soulsby, R. L. 1997. Dynamics of Marine Sands: a manual for practical applications. London: Thomas Telford Publications.
PMCid:1343100
Stockdon, H. F., R. A. Holman, P. A. Howd & A. H. Sallenger Jr. 2006. Emperical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup. Coastal Engineering, 53(7), 573-588.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.12.005
Swart, D. H. 1974. Offshore sediment transport and equilibrium beach profiles. Laboratory Publication No. 131, Delft Hydraulics.
van Rijn, L. C. 2007. Unified View of Sediment Transport by Currents and Waves. I: Initiation of Motion, Bed Roughness, and Bed-load Transport. II: Suspended transport. III: Graded beds. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, 133(6), 649-775.http://dx.doi.org/10.1061/(ASCE)0733-9429(2007)133:6(649)