FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ-TYPE MODELLING OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER A LOW-SLOPING BEACH

Marion Tissier; Philippe Bonneton; Gerben Ruessink; Fabien Marche; Florent Chazel; David Lannes

doi:10.9753/icce.v33.currents.28

No. 33 (2012), Swash, Nearshore Currents, and Long Waves

No. 33 (2012)

FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ-TYPE MODELLING OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER A LOW-SLOPING BEACH

Swash, Nearshore Currents, and Long Waves

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.28

Published 2012-12-14

Marion Tissier⁺⁻
Philippe Bonneton⁺⁻
Gerben Ruessink⁺⁻
Fabien Marche⁺⁻
Florent Chazel⁺⁻
David Lannes⁺⁻

Marion Tissier

Faculty of Geosciences, Utrecht University

Philippe Bonneton

2 UMR CNRS 5805 EPOC - Université Bordeaux

Gerben Ruessink

Faculty of Geosciences, Utrecht University

Fabien Marche

Université de Montpellier 2, UMR CNRS 5149

Florent Chazel

INSA Toulouse

David Lannes

DMA/CNRS, Ecole Normale Supérieure

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Keywords

infragravity wave dissipation
fully nonlinear Bouiinesq-type model
long-wave breaking
bore merging

How to Cite

Tissier, M., Bonneton, P., Ruessink, G., Marche, F., Chazel, F., & Lannes, D. (2012). FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ-TYPE MODELLING OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER A LOW-SLOPING BEACH. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(33), currents.28. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.28

Abstract

Recent field studies over low sloping beaches have shown that infragravity waves could dissipate a significant part of their energy in the inner surf zone. This phenomenon and the associated short- and long-wave transformations are not well-understood. In this paper, we assess the ability of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type model introduced in Bonneton et al. (2011) to reproduce short and long wave transformation in a case involving a strong infragravity wave dissipation close to the shoreline. This validation study, based on van Dongeren et al. (2008)'s laboratory experiments, suggests that the model is able to predict infragravity wave breaking as well as the complex interactions between short and long waves in the surf zone.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.28

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References

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FULLY NONLINEAR BOUSSINESQ-TYPE MODELLING OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER A LOW-SLOPING BEACH

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