Keywords
surfable wave
surf point
wave concentration structure
reef
ship generated wave
How to Cite
Abstract
A method to obtain surfable waves by amplifying ship generated waves with both wave concentration structures and a reef is discussed to build surf points in calm areas of nearshore zones. The appropriate wave height for ordinary surfers is defined according to a questionnaire to local surfers in Kagoshima, Japan. The most effective shapes of the structures are determined on the basis of amplification factors of wave height through numerical calculation. We performed hydraulic experiments, as well as numerical computations, of ship generated waves amplified using the structures. Consequently, it is feasible to build a surf point in Kagoshima Bay by amplifying waves generated by the ferries through the proposed method with the structures which consist of the wave concentration structures and the reef.References
Kakinuma, T. 2001. A set of fully nonlinear equations for surface and internal gravity waves, Proceedings of the 5th International Conference on Computer Modelling of Seas and Coastal Regions, WIT Press, 225-234.
Morita, S., T. Sawaragi, I. Deguchi and S. Okuda. 1995. Simple numerical method of ship generated waves in marina, Journal of Civil Engineering in the Ocean, JSCE, 11, 13-18 (in Japanese).
Nakano, S., T. Mishima, K. Nakano and H. Mitsui. 1994. Wave characteristics near the reef of delta-type for surfing, Journal of Coastal Engineering, JSCE, 41, 721-725 (in Japanese).
Nakayama, K. and T. Kakinuma. 2010. Internal waves in a two-layer system using fully nonlinear internal-wave equations, International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids, 62, 574-590.
Schipper, M. A. de. 2007. On the generation of surfable ship waves in a circular pool, Part I: Physical background and wave pool design, Master Thesis, Delft University of Technology, 82p.
Schmied, S. A., J. R. Binns, M. R. Renilson, G. A. Thomas, G. J. Macfarlane and R. Huijsmans. 2013. A novel method for generating continuously surfable waves - Comparison of predictions with experimental results, Journal of Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering, 135, 034501, 9 pages.
Vries, S. de. 2007. On the generation of surfable ship waves in a circular pool, Part II: The application of stereo photo technique measuring water surface elevation and surface flow velocities, Master Thesis, Delft University of Technology, 68p.
West, A. S., P. Cowell, J. A. Battjes, M. J. F. Stive, N. Doorn and J. A. Roelvink. 2003. Wave-focusing surfing reefs - A new concept, Proceedings of the 3rd International Surfing Reef Symposium, 360-370.