How to Cite

Silva, R., Oderiz, I., Mortlock, T., & Marino-Tapia, I. (2020). CLIMATE VARIABILITY INDUCED SHIFTS OF THE WAVE CLIMATE IN MEXICO. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, (36v), waves.21.


Inter-annual variability of wave climates is important for coastal risk assessment because these fluctuations can increase or decrease seasonal erosion risk (Wahl and Plant 2015). Understanding how long-term variability affects the seasonality of sediment transport is an important challenge in risk assessments (Toimil et al. 2020). There have been many attempts to quantify long-term variability in offshore wave climate, as this is the primary driver of coastal processes on sandy coasts. However, there is very little work on how the long-term variability of wave climate influences sediment transport. One of the most important drivers of sediment transport is the mean wave direction of incoming waves (Barnard et al. 2015; Hemer, Church, and Hunter 2010; Morim et al. 2019), although it is still not fully understood. An important contribution in this regard is the work of (Barnard et al. 2015), who found that El Nio Southern Oscillation (ENSO) dominates coastal vulnerability in the Pacific Ocean. On the other hand, several works at global scale (Godoi and Torres Junior 2020; Reguero, Losada, and Mendez 2019; Stopa and Cheung 2014) have found that ENSO is the climatic driver that most affects the interannual variability of the wave climate. However, understanding how ENSO impacts wave direction is still lacking.

Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link):


Barnard, Short, Harley, Splinter, Vitousek, Turner, Allan, Banno, Bryan, Doria, Hansen, Kato, Kuriyama, Randall-Goodwin, Ruggiero, Walker, and Heathfield (2015): Coastal Vulnerability across the Pacific Dominated by El Niño/Southern Oscillation. Nature Geoscience 8(10):801–7.

Godoi, and Torres Júnior (2020): A Global Analysis of Austral Summer Ocean Wave Variability during SAM–ENSO Phase Combinations. Climate Dynamics 54(9):3991–4004.

Hemer, Church, and Hunter. 2010. Variability and Trends in the Directional Wave Climate of the Southern Hemisphere. International Journal of Climatology 30(4):475–91.

Morim, Hemer, Wang, Cartwright, Trenham, Semedo, Young, Bricheno, Camus, Casas-Prat, Erikson, Mentaschi, Mori, Shimura, Timmermans, Aarnes, Breivik, Behrens, Dobrynin, Menendez, Staneva, Wehner, Wolf, Kamranzad, Webb, Stopa, and Andutta (2019): Robustness and Uncertainties in Global Multivariate Wind-Wave Climate Projections. Nature Climate Change 9(9):711–18.

Odériz, Silva, Mortlock, and Mendoza (2020): Climate Drivers of Directional Wave Power on the Mexican Coast. Ocean Dynamics 70(9):1253–65.

Reguero, Losada, and Méndez (2019): A Recent Increase in Global Wave Power as a Consequence of Oceanic Warming. Nature Communications 10(1):1–14.

Saha, and Coauthors (2010): The NCEP Climate Forecast System Reanalysis. Bull. Amer. Meteor. Soc. 91:1015.1057.

Stopa, Fai Cheung (2014): Periodicity and Patterns of Ocean Wind and Wave Climate. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 119(8):5563–84.

Toimil, Camus, Losada,Le Cozannet, Nicholls, Idier, and Maspataud (2020): Climate Change-Driven Coastal Erosion Modelling in Temperate Sandy Beaches: Methods and Uncertainty Treatment. Earth-Science Reviews 202:103110.

Wahl, and Plant (2015): Changes in Erosion and Flooding Risk Due to Long-Term and Cyclic Oceanographic Trends. Geophysical Research Letters 42(8):2943–50.

Creative Commons License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.