How to Cite

Kimmoun, O., Hsu, H., & Chabchoub, A. (2020). EVOLUTION OF UNSTABLE WAVE PACKETS OVER VARIABLE BATHYMETRY. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, (36v), waves.8. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.waves.8


Several field observations have reported the formation of rogue waves in coastal zones, see Chien et al. (2002) for an example in Taiwanese sea. The mechanisms that lead to the occurrence of rogue waves in finite water depth to shallow water are not well understood yet under the conjecture of modulation instability. Indeed, this theory for uni-directional waves shows that when kh is lower than a threshold of 1.363 in homogeneous water depth conditions, the wave train becomes stable to side-band perturbations. Then if the wave train is stable, the appearance of rogue waves is not possible within this linear stability framework. One explanation may come from the complex wave transformation mechanisms in variable bathymetry, especially, for cases of steep slopes or near the edge between a steep slope and a gentle slope as it is the case of the continental shelf. Very few laboratory experiments have been so far addressing the influence of the bathymetry on extreme wave occurrence (Baldock and Swan (1996), Kashima et al. (2012), Ma et al. (2015)).

Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/a5M4PS-Lo4Q


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Chien, H., Kao, C. C., & Chuang, L. Z. (2002). On the characteristics of observed coastal freak waves. Coastal Engineering Journal, 44(04), 301-319.

T. E. Baldock & C. Swan, 1996, Extreme waves in shallow and intermediate water depths, Coastal Engineering, 27, 21-46.

Kashima, H., K. Hirayama & N. Mori, 2012. Shallow water effects on freak wave occurrence. Proceedings of 22nd International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, Rhodes, Greece, 3: 778-783.

Ma, Y.-X., Ma, X.-Z., Dong, G.H. (2015). Variations of statistics for random waves propagating over a bar. Journal of Marine Science and Technology, 23, 864-869.

Sergeeva, A., Slunyaev, A., Pelinovsky, E., Talipova, T., & Doong, D. J. (2014). Numerical modeling of rogue waves in coastal waters. Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 14(4), 861-870.

Slunyaev, A.V. (2005). A high-order nonlinear envelope equation for gravity waves in finite-depth water. Journal of Experimental and Theoretical Physics, 101(5), 926-941.

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