FIELD MEASUREMENTS AND MODELLING OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS AT A HIGH-ENERGY GEOLOGICALLY-CONSTRAINED BEACH
PDF

How to Cite

Mouragues, A., Bonneton, P., Castelle, B., & Marieu, V. (2020). FIELD MEASUREMENTS AND MODELLING OF NEARSHORE CURRENTS AT A HIGH-ENERGY GEOLOGICALLY-CONSTRAINED BEACH. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, (36v), currents.18. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.currents.18

Abstract

We present field measurements of nearshore currents at a high-energy mesotidal beach with the presence of a 500-m headland and a submerged reef. Small changes in wave forcing and tide elevation were found to largely impact circulation patterns. In particular, under 4-m oblique wave conditions, our measurements indicate the presence of an intense low-frequency fluctuating deflection rip flowing against the headland and extending well beyond the surf zone. An XBeach model is further set up to hindcast such flow patterns.

Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/EiqnjBIkWJE
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36v.currents.18
PDF

References

McCarroll R.J., Masselink G., Valiente N., Scott T., King E., Conley D. (2018): Wave and tidal controls on embayment circulation and headland bypassing for an exposed macrotidal site, Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 6 (3), pp. 94.

Scott T., Austin M., Masselink G., Russell P. (2016): Dynamics of rip currents associated with groynes – field measurements, modelling and implications for beach safety, Coastal Engineering 107, pp. 53-69.

Valiente N.G., McCaroll R.J., Masselink G., Scott T., Wiggins M. (2019): Multi-annual embayment sediment dynamics involving headland bypassing and sediment exchange across the depth of closure, Geomorphology 343, pp. 48-64.

Creative Commons License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.