Kai Irschik, Stefan Schimmels, Hocine Oumeraci


Breaking waves generated by focusing of transient wave packets have been analyzed. By a comparison of video data and gauge measurements the threshold frequency for the use of the PTM as a breaking criterion is derived. The present result is slightly higher than the original value of Zimmermann & Seymour (2002) for spilling breakers, but confirms the results of Irschik & Oumeraci (2006). Additionally the use of the zero down-cross period Tz instead of the peak period TP is investigated. Both definitions lead for the present conditions with plunging breakers to almost identical results.


transient wave packet; wave focusing; breaking waves; breaking criterion; Phase-Time-Method

Full Text:



Bonmarin, P. 1989. Geometric properties of deep-water breaking waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 209, No. 12, pp. 405-433.

Duncan, J.H.; Wallendorf, L.A.; Johnson, B. 1987. An experimental investigation of the kinematics of breaking waves. IAHR Seminar wave analysis and generation in laboratory basins; pp. 411-422.

Huang, N.E.; Long, S.R.; Tung, C.C.; Donelan, M.A.; Yuan, Y.; Lai, R.J. 1992. The local properties of ocean waves by the phase-time method. Geophysical Research Letters, Vol. 19, No. 7, pp. 685-688.

Irschik, K., and H. Oumeraci. 2006. Effect of breaker types on breaking wave loads on a slender vertical and inclined pile. Proceedings of 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2006, ASCE, 4520-4531.

Kamphuis, J.W. 1991. Incipient wave breaking, Coastal Engineering, Vol. 15, pp. 185-203.

Lader, P.F.; Grytoyr, G.; Myrhaug, D.; Peterrsen, B. 1998. Breaking wave geometry with emphasis on steepness and curvature. Ocean Wave Kinematics, Dynamics ans Loads on Structures; p. 281-288.

Wienke, J., and H. Oumeraci. 2005. Breaking wave impact force on a vertical and inclined slender pile – theoretical and large-scale model investigations. Coastal Engineering, 52 (5), 435-462.

Zimmermann, C.-A., and R. Seymour. 2002. Detection of Breaking in a Deep Water Wave Record. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering, ASCE, 128, 2, 72-78.