THE THEORY OF THE REFRACTION OF A SHORT CRESTED GAUSSIAN SEA SURFACE WITH APPLICATION TO THE NORTHERN NEW JERSEY COAST
No. 3 (1952), Conference Proceedings
No. 3 (1952)

THE THEORY OF THE REFRACTION OF A SHORT CRESTED GAUSSIAN SEA SURFACE WITH APPLICATION TO THE NORTHERN NEW JERSEY COAST

Conference Proceedings
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v3.8
Published 1952-01-01
Willard J. Pierson, Jr.
New York University
John J. Tuttell
New York University
John A. Woolley
New York University
PDF

Keywords

wave refraction
wave theory
Asbury Park
New Jersery

How to Cite

Pierson, Jr., W. J., Tuttell, J. J., & Woolley, J. A. (1952). THE THEORY OF THE REFRACTION OF A SHORT CRESTED GAUSSIAN SEA SURFACE WITH APPLICATION TO THE NORTHERN NEW JERSEY COAST. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(3), 8. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v3.8
ACM ACS APA ABNT Chicago Harvard IEEE MLA Turabian Vancouver

Download Citation

Endnote/Zotero/Mendeley (RIS) BibTeX

Abstract

The Thorndike Barnhart Dictionary (1951) defines a wave as a "moving ridge or swell of water." Almost everyone will agree to this definition. Milne-Thompson (1938) in Theoretical Hydrodynamics begins Chapter Fourteen on waves with the two paragraphs quoted in full below: "14.10 Wave motion. A wave motion of a liquid acted upon by gravity and having a free surface is a motion in which the elevation of the free surface above some chosen fixed horizontal plane varies with time. Taking the axis of x to be horizontal and the axis of z to be vertically upwards, a motion in which the vertical section of the free surface at time t is of the form z = a sin(mx - nt) (1), where a, m, n are constants, is called a simple harmonic progressive wave."
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v3.8
PDF
Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.