COMPILATION OF OCEAN AND LAKE WAVE STATISTICS

Abstract

The wave program described in this paper is one intended to provide wave statistics by having our Los Angeles County life guards observe the wave heights, directions and periods. Mark-sense cards and high speed data processing equipment and computers are used to handle the volumes of statistics. While some scientists are planning very accurate, costly solutions to the problems of wave statistics, agencies are reluctant to venture into an expensive, elaborate wave surveillance program requiring a large quantity of personnel. I feel that neither the accuracy of present day design or construction methods warrant "split hair" accuracy in wave surveillance. The method described in this paper will provide a practical solution if the statistics are handled as follow 1. Wave statistics are gathered continuously over many years of time. 2. A standard is set to check the observed values. 3. Large rare damaging storm conditions will be developed by any reasonable means available until enough years of observation have passed to provide adequate statistics.