ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES

J.A. Battjes; J.P.F.M. Janssen

doi:10.9753/icce.v16.32

No. 16 (1978), Conference Proceedings

No. 16 (1978)

ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES

Conference Proceedings

Published 1978-01-29

J.A. Battjes⁺⁻
J.P.F.M. Janssen⁺⁻

J.A. Battjes

Dept. of Civil Engineering, Delft University of Technology

J.P.F.M. Janssen

Dept. of Civil Engineering, Delft University of Technology

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Keywords

wave breaking
energy loss
setup
random waves

How to Cite

ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES. (1978). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(16), 32. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v16.32

Abstract

A description is given of a model developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach. The dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height, while the probability of occurrence of breaking waves is estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an upper cut-off which in shallow water is determined mainly by the local depth. A comparison with measurements of wave height decay and set-up, on a plane beach and on a beach with a bar-trough profile, indicates that the model is capable of predicting qualitatively and quantitatively all the main features of the data.

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ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES

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