BREAKPOINT-FORCED AND BOUND LONG WAVES IN THE NEARSHORE: A MODEL COMPARISON
No. 23 (1992), Conference Proceedings
No. 23 (1992)

BREAKPOINT-FORCED AND BOUND LONG WAVES IN THE NEARSHORE: A MODEL COMPARISON

Conference Proceedings
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v23.%25p
Published 1992-01-29
Jeffrey H. List
U.S. Geological Survey
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Keywords

long waves
bounded wabes
model comparison
breakpoint-forced waves

How to Cite

List, J. H. (1992). BREAKPOINT-FORCED AND BOUND LONG WAVES IN THE NEARSHORE: A MODEL COMPARISON. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(23). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v23.%p
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Abstract

A finite-difference model is used to compare long wave amplitudes arising from two group-forced generation mechanisms in the nearshore: long waves generated at a time-varying breakpoint and the shallow-water extension of the bound long wave. Plane beach results demonstrate that the strong frequency selection in the outgoing wave predicted by the breakpoint-forcing mechanism may not be observable in field data due to this wave's relatively small size and its predicted phase relation with the bound wave. Over a bar/trough nearshore, it is shown that a strong frequency selection in shoreline amplitudes is not a unique result of the time-varying breakpoint model, but a general result of the interaction between topography and any broad-banded forcing of nearshore long waves.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v23.%25p
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