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infragravity waves
non-hydrostatic modelling
nearshore wave transformation

How to Cite

Rijnsdorp, D. P., Smit, P. B., & Zijlema, M. (2012). NON-HYDROSTATIC MODELLING OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES USING SWASH. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(33), currents.27.


This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a sloping bottom. Good agreement between model predictions and data is found throughout the domain for bound infragravity waves. Furthermore the model predicts greater outgoing free infragravity wave-heights for steeper slope regimes which is consistent with the measurements. The model however tends to overestimate the magnitude of the outgoing infragravity waves.


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