BARRED-BEACH MORPHOLOGICAL CONTROL ON INFRAGRAVITY MOTION
ICCE 2012 Cover Image
PDF

Keywords

Longwave dynamics
Sandbar
Swash
Nearshore
Laboratory experiment
Non-linear Boussinesq wave modeling
Radon transform
Incoming/Outgoing wave separation
Infragravity resonance

How to Cite

Almar, R., Cienfuegos, R., Gonzalez, E., Catalán, P., Michallet, H., Bonneton, P., Castelle, B., & Suarez, L. (2012). BARRED-BEACH MORPHOLOGICAL CONTROL ON INFRAGRAVITY MOTION. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(33), currents.24. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.24

Abstract

A conceptual analysis of the coupling between bars and infragravity waves is performed combining laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. Experiments are carried out in a wave flume with a barred profile. The Boussinesq fully-nonlinear model SERR1D is validated with the laboratory data and a sensitivity analysis is performed next to study the influence on the infragravity wave dynamics of bar amplitude and location, and swash zone slope. A novel technique of incident and reflected motions separation that conserves temporal characteristics is applied. We observe that changing bar characteristics induces substantial variations in trapped energy. Interestingly, a modification of swash zone slope has a large influence on the reflected component, controlling amplitude and phase time-lag, and consequently on the resonant pattern. Variations of trapped infragravity energy induced by changes of swash zone slope reach 25 %. These changes in infragravity pattern consequently affect short-wave dynamics by modifying the breakpoint location and the breaking intensity. Our conceptual investigation suggests the existence of a morphological feedback through the action of evolving morphology on infragravity structures which modulates the action of short-waves on the morphology itself.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.24
PDF

References

Aagaard, T., Bryan, K., 2003, Observations of infragravity wave frequency selection. Continental Shelf Research, 23, 10, 1019-1034.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0278-4343(03)00082-7">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0278-4343(03)00082-7

Baldock, T.E., Holmes, P., 1999. Simulation and prediction of swash oscillations on a steep beach. Coast. Eng. 36, 219-242.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00011-3">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00011-3

Baldock, T. E., O'Hare, T. J. and Huntley, D. A. 2004. Long wave forcing on a barred beach. J. Fluid Mech. 503, 321-343.http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S002211200400792X">http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S002211200400792X

Cienfuegos, R., Barthelemy, E., Bonneton, P., 2010a. A wave-breaking model 34 for Boussinesq-type equations including roller effects in the mass conservation equation. J. Waterw. Port Coastal Oc. Eng. 136, 10-26.

Cienfuegos, R., Duarte, L., Suárez, L. and Catalán. P. 2010b. Numerical Computation of Infragravity Waves and Velocity Profiles using a Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Model, 32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Shanghai, China, 2010.

Deans, S., 1983. The Radon transform and some of its applications, 1st Edition. Wiley, New York.

PMCid:256481

Guza, R.T., Thorton, E.B., Holman, R.A. 1984. Swash on steep and shallow beaches. Proceedings of the 19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 708-723.

Michallet, H., Grasso, F. and Barthélemy, E. 2007. Long waves and beach profiles evolutions. Journal of Coastal Research, SI50, 221-225.

O'Hare, T.J., and Huntley, D.A. 1994. Bar formation due to wave groups and associated long waves, Marine Geology, 116, 313-325.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(94)90048-5">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(94)90048-5

Ruessink, B.G., 1998. The temporal and spatial variability of infragravity waves in a barred nearshore zone. Continental Shelf Research, 18, 585-605.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0278-4343(97)00055-1">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0278-4343(97)00055-1

Sénéchal, N., Bonneton, P., Dupuis, H. 2002. Field experiment on secondary wave generation on a barred beach and the consequent evolution of energy dissipation on the beach face. Coastal Eng 46, 233-247.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00095-9">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00095-9

Senechal, N., Abadie, S., Gallagher, E., MacMahan, J.H.M., Masselink, G., Michallet, H., Reniers, Ad J.H.M., Ruessink, B.G., Russell, P.E., Sous, D., Turner, I.L., Ardhuin, F., Bonneton, P., Bujan, S., Capo, S., Certain, R., Pedreros, R., Garlan, T. 2011. The ECORS-Truc Vert'08 nearshore field experiment: presentation of a three-dimensional morphologic system in a macro-tidal environment during consecutive extreme storm conditions, Ocean Dynamics, DOI: 10.1007/s10236-011-0472-x.http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10236-011-0472-x">http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10236-011-0472-x

Symonds, G., Huntley, A., Bowen, A., 1982. Two-dimensional surf-beat: long-wave generation by a time-varying breakpoint. J. Geophys. Res. 87, 492-498.http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC087iC01p00492">http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/JC087iC01p00492

Van Dongeren, A.R., Battjes, J.A., Janssen, T.T., van Noorloos, J., Steenbergen, K., Reniers, A. 2007. Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low-frequency waves, Journal of Geophysical Research, 112 (C02011).

Wijnberg, K.M., and Kroon., A., 2002. Barred beaches, Geomorphology 48, 103-120.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0169-555X(02)00177-0">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0169-555X(02)00177-0

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.