FREQUENCY DOWNSHIFTING OF WAVE SPECTRA AND FORMATION OF FREAK WAVES ON NON-UNIFORM OPPOSING CURRENT

Igor Shugan; Yana Saprykina; Sergey Kuznetsov; Ray-Yeng Yang

doi:10.9753/icce.v34.waves.24

No. 34 (2014), Waves

No. 34 (2014)

FREQUENCY DOWNSHIFTING OF WAVE SPECTRA AND FORMATION OF FREAK WAVES ON NON-UNIFORM OPPOSING CURRENT

Waves

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v34.waves.24

Published 2014-10-26

Igor Shugan
Yana Saprykina⁺⁻
Sergey Kuznetsov⁺⁻
Ray-Yeng Yang⁺⁻

Igor Shugan

Yana Saprykina

Institute of Oceanology of Russian Academy of Science, Moscow, Russia

Sergey Kuznetsov

Institute of Oceanology of Russian Academy of Science, Moscow, Russia

Ray-Yeng Yang

National Cheng Kung University, Taiwan

PDF

Keywords

waves on opposite current
frequency downshifting
freak waves.

How to Cite

Shugan, I., Saprykina, Y., Kuznetsov, S., & Yang, R.-Y. (2014). FREQUENCY DOWNSHIFTING OF WAVE SPECTRA AND FORMATION OF FREAK WAVES ON NON-UNIFORM OPPOSING CURRENT. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(34), waves.24. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v34.waves.24

Abstract

Physical and numerical modeling of initially monochromatic wave propagation on stepwise opposite current in conditions of deep water was carrying out. The physical experiments demonstrated two steps of downshifting of spectral maximum in the regions of increasing of opposite current. Freak waves arise at the moments of downshifting, when several peaks of spectrum exist, due to superposition of waves, provided by each of spectral peaks. To explain the phenomena of downshifting the dynamical evolution set of equations are constructed. Their solutions perfectly described the main qualitative features of wave transformation during the physical experiments.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v34.waves.24

PDF

References

Benjamin, T. B. and Feir, J. E. 1967 Instability of periodic wavetrains in nonlinear dispersive systems. J. Fluid Mech. 27, p.p. 417-430.

Chawla, A. and Kirby, J. 2002 Monochromatic and random wave breaking at block points. Journal of Geophysical Res., 107, C7, p.p. 4.1-4.19.

Hwung, H., Chiang W. and Hsiao S. 2007 Observations on the evolution of wave modulation. Proc. R. Soc. London, Ser. A, 463, p.p. 85-112.

Hwung, H., Chiang W., Yang, R. and Shugan, I. 2011 Threshold Model on the Evolution of Stokes Wave Side-Band Instability. Eur. J. Mech. B/Fluids, 30, p.p. 147-155.

Kuznetsov S., Ya. Saprykina. 2008. Fine structure and peculiarities of wave spectra with Benjamin-Feir instability. Proceedings of International Workshop "Rogue Waves 2008†, Brest France, http://www.ifremer.fr/web-com/stw2008/rw/Proceedings_Rogue_Waves_2008.pdf .

Kuznetsov S.Yu., Ya.V. Saprykina, R.D. Kos'yan, O.V. Pushkarev, 2006. Formation mechanism of extreme storm waves in the Black sea. Doklady Earth Sciences, V. 408, N 4, p.p. 570-574.

Lake, B. M. & Yuen, H. C. 1978. A new model for nonlinear wind waves. Part 1. Physical model and experimental evidence. J. Fluid Mech. 88, 33-62.

Lo, E. and Mei, C. C. 1985 A numerical study of water-wave modulation base on a higher-order nonlinear Schrodinger equation. J. Fluid Mech., 150, 395-416.

Longuet-Higgins, M, & Stewart, R. 1964 Radiation stresses in water waves: a physical discussion, with applications. Deep-sea Res. 11, 529-562.

Ma, Y, Dong, G, Perlin, M., Ma, X., Wang, G. and Xu, J. 2010 Laboratory observations of wave evolution, modulation and blocking due to spatially varying opposing currents. J. Fluid Mech., 661, 108-129.

Phillips, O.M. 1967 Theoretical and Experimental Studies of Gravity wave interactions. Proc. R. Soc. Lond. A, 299, 104-119.

Saprykina Y., S. Kuznetsov. 2009. Nonlinear mechanisms of formation of wave irregularity on deep and shallow water. Proceeding of 31th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ed. by J.McKee Smith, World Scientific, vol.1, p.p. 357-369.

Shemer, L., Kit, E. and Jiao, H. 2002 An experimental and numerical study of the spatial evolution of unidirectional nonlinear water-wave groups. Physics of fluids, 14, N10, 3380-3390.

Shugan, I. & Voliak, K. 1998 On phase kinks, negative frequencies and other third order peculiarities of modulated surface waves. J. Fluid Mech. 368, 321-338.

Tulin, M. P. 1996 Breaking of ocean waves and downshifting. In Waves and Nonlinear Processes in Hydrodynamics (ed. J. Grue, B. Gjevik & J. E. Weber), 177-190. Kluwer.

Tulin, M. P. and Waseda, T. 1999 Laboratory observations of wave group evolution, including breaking effects. J. Fluid Mech., 378,197-232.

Whitham, G. B. 1974 Linear and Nonlinear Waves. John Wiley & Sons.

Yuen, H. C. & Lake, B. M. 1982 Nonlinear dynamics of deep-water gravity waves. In Advances in Applied Mechanics, 22, pp. 67-229. Academic Press.

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

Most read articles by the same author(s)

Hsin Hung Chen, Ray-Yeng Yang, Ping-Chiao Kuo, Hwung-Hweng Hwung, PHYSICAL MODELING STUDY ON SCOUR AND SCOUR COUNTERMEASURE FOR SEA-CROSSING BRIDGE PIERS , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 33 (2012): Proceedings of 33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Santander, Spain, 2012
Ray-Yeng Yang, Hsin-Hung Chen, Hwung-Hweng Hwung, Wen-Pin Jiang, Nian-Tzu Wu, EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON THE LOADING AND SCOUR OF THE JACKET TYPE OFFSHORE WIND TURBINE FOUNDATION , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 32 (2010): Proceedings of 32nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Shanghai, China, 2010.
Sergey Kuznetsov, Yana Saprykina, SECONDARY WAVES IN COASTAL ZONE: PHYSICAL MECHANISMS OF FORMATION AND POSSIBLE APPLICATION FOR COASTAL PROTECTION , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 33 (2012): Proceedings of 33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Santander, Spain, 2012
Wen-Yang Hsu, Igor Shugan, Wen-Son Chiang, Ray-Yeng Yang, Hwung-Hweng Hwung, Sergey Kuznetsov, Yana Saprykina, AN EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON NONLINEAR WAVE DYNAMICS: ROUGE WAVE GENERATION AND WAVE BLOCKING , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 34 (2014): Proceedings of 34th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Seoul, Korea, 2014
Ray-Yeng Yang, Li-An Kuo, Hwung-Hweng Hwung, COUNTERMEASURE STUDY TO PROTECT THE LARGEST OFFSHORE BARRIER ISLAND IN TAIWAN , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 34 (2014): Proceedings of 34th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Seoul, Korea, 2014
Yana Saprykina, Sergey Kuznetsov, Margarita Shtremel, PARAMETERIZATION OF EVOLUTION OF BIPHASE DURING NONLINEAR TRANSFORMATION OF WAVES IN COASTAL ZONE , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 35 (2016): Proceedings of 35th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Antalya, Turkey, 2016
Hsin Hung Chen, Ray-Yeng Yang, Jian-Wei Li, Hwung-Hweng Hwung, Ta-Hui Lin, Ming-Chung Lin, STUDY ON MULTI-USE OF AN INTEGRATED OFFSHORE WIND TURBINE FOUNDATION AND COASTAL CAGE NET , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 34 (2014): Proceedings of 34th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Seoul, Korea, 2014
Yana Saprykina, Olga Kuznetsova, INFLUENCE OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION PROCESSES ON EVOLUTION OF UNDERWATER BEACH PROFILE , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 36 (2018): Proceedings of 36th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Baltimore, Maryland, 2018
Jing-Bo Hung, Wen-Yang Hsu, Pei-Chi Chang, Ray-Yeng Yang, Ta-Hui Lin, THE PERFORMANCE VALIDATION AND OPERATION OF NEARSHORE WIND MEASUREMENTS USING THE FLOATING LIDAR , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 34 (2014): Proceedings of 34th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Seoul, Korea, 2014
Sergey Kuznetsov, Yana Saprykina, Valentina Volkova, DEPENDENCIES OF BREAKING TYPE, BREAKING CRITERIA AND ENERGY DISSIPATION ON AMPLITUDE-PHASE FREQUENCY STRUCTURE OF WAVES , Coastal Engineering Proceedings: No. 36 (2018): Proceedings of 36th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Baltimore, Maryland, 2018

1 2 > >>

FREQUENCY DOWNSHIFTING OF WAVE SPECTRA AND FORMATION OF FREAK WAVES ON NON-UNIFORM OPPOSING CURRENT

Keywords

How to Cite

Download Citation

Abstract

References

Most read articles by the same author(s)