SUSPENDED AND BEDLOAD TRANSPORT IN THE SURF ZONE: IMPLICATIONS FOR SAND TRANSPORT MODELS
ICCE 2016 Cover Image
PDF

Keywords

Sand transport
Breaking waves
wave flume experiment
boundary layer processes
sheet flow
morphodynamic models

How to Cite

Zanden, J. van der, van der A, D. A., O’Donoghue, T., Hurther, D., Caceres, I., Thorne, P. D., van der Werf, J. J., Hulscher, S. J., & Ribberink, J. S. (2017). SUSPENDED AND BEDLOAD TRANSPORT IN THE SURF ZONE: IMPLICATIONS FOR SAND TRANSPORT MODELS. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(35), sediment.30. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.sediment.30

Abstract

This paper presents results obtained during a large-scale wave flume experiment focused at measuring hydrodynamics and sediment transport processes in the wave breaking region. The experiment involved monochromatic plunging breaking waves over a mobile bed barred profile consisting of D50 = 0.24 mm sand. Vertical profiles of velocity, turbulence, sand concentration and sand fluxes were measured at 12 cross-shore locations, covering the shoaling region up to the inner surf zone. Particularly high-resolution profiles were obtained near the bed within the wave bottom boundary layer, using an acoustic sediment concentration and velocity profiler (ACVP). Sheet flow concentration and particle velocities were measured at two locations near the bar crest using two conductivity-based concentration measurement tanks (CCM+). Total transport rates, obtained from the evolving bed profile measurements, were decomposed into suspended and bedload transport contributions across the bar. The present paper presents a summary of the key findings of the experiment, which are used to discuss existing approaches for modeling suspended and bed load transport in the surf zone.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v35.sediment.30
PDF

References

Boers, M. 2005. Surf zone turbulence. PhD Thesis, TU Delft, The Netherlands.

Brinkkemper, J. A., A. T. M. de Bakker and B. G. Ruessink. 2017. Intrawave sand suspension in the shoaling and surf zone of a field-scale laboratory beach. Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface.

Brown, S. A., D. M. Greaves, V. Magar and D. C. Conley. 2016. Evaluation of turbulence closure models under spilling and plunging breakers in the surf zone. Coastal Engineering 114, 177-193.

Cox, D. T., N. Kobayashi and A. Okayasu 1996. Bottom shear stress in the surf zone. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans 101(C6), 14337-14348.

Fernández-Mora, A., D. Calvete, A. Falqués and H. E. de Swart. 2015. Onshore sandbar migration in the surf zone: New insights into the wave-induced sediment transport mechanisms. Geophysical Research Letters 42(8), 2869-2877.

Hoefel, F. and S. Elgar. 2003. Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration. Science 299(5614), 1885-1887.

Houwman, K. T. and G. Ruessink. 1996. Cross-shore sediment transport mechanisms in the surfzone on a timescale of months to years. Proceedings of the 25th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 4793-4806.

Hsu, T. J. and P. L. F. Liu. 2004. Toward modeling turbulent suspension of sand in the nearshore. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans 109(C6).

Hurther, D., P. D. Thorne, M. Bricault, U. Lemmin and J. M. Barnoud. 2011. A multi-frequency Acoustic Concentration and Velocity Profiler (ACVP) for boundary layer measurements of finescale flow and sediment transport processes. Coastal Engineering 58(7), 594-605.

Jacobsen, N. G. and J. Fredsoe. 2014. Formation and development of a breaker bar under regular waves. Part 2: Sediment transport and morphology. Coastal Engineering 88, 55-68.

Kobayashi, N. and B. D. Johnson. 2001. Sand suspension, storage, advection, and settling in surf and swash zones. Journal of Geophysical Research 106(C5), 9363-9376.

Kobayashi, N., H. Zhao and Y. Tega. 2005. Suspended sand transport in surf zones. Journal of Geophysical Research 110(C12).

Luijendijk, A. P., R. Ranasinghe, M. A. de Schipper, B. A. Huisman, C. M. Swinkels, D. J. R. Walstra and M. J. F. Stive. 2017. The initial morphological response of the Sand Engine: A process-based modelling study. Coastal Engineering 119, 1-14.

Mocke, G. P. and G. G. Smith. 1992. Wave breaker turbulence as a mechanism for sediment suspension. Proceedings of the 23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering. ASCE, 2279-2292.

Nadaoka, K., S. Ueno and T. Igarashi. 1988. Sediment suspension due to large scale eddies in the surf zone. Proceedings of the 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering. ASCE, 1646-1660.

Nielsen, P. 1984. Field-Measurements of Time-Averaged Suspended Sediment Concentrations under Waves. Coastal Engineering 8(1), 51-72.

Nielsen, P. 1986. Suspended Sediment Concentrations under Waves. Coastal Engineering. 10(1), 23-31.

O'Donoghue, T. and S. Wright 2004. Concentrations in oscillatory sheet flow for well sorted and graded sands. Coastal Engineering 50(3), 117-138.

Okayasu, A., K. Fujii and M. Isobe. 2010. Effect of external turbulence on sediment pickup rate. Proceedings of the 32nd International Conference on Coastal Engineering, CERC, 13 pp.

Ribberink, J. S., J. J. van der Werf, T. O'Donoghue and W. N. M. Hassan. 2008. Sand motion induced by oscillatory flows: Sheet flow and vortex ripples. Journal of Turbulence 9(20), 1-32.

Ribberink, J. S., D. A. Van der A, J. Van der Zanden, T. O'Donoghue, D. Hurther, I. Cáceres and P. D. Thorne. 2014. SandT-Pro: Sediment transport measurements under irregular and breaking waves. Proceedings of the 34th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. CERC, 14 pp.

Rocha, M. V. L., H. Michallet and P. A. Silva. 2017. Improving the parameterization of wave nonlinearities - The importance of wave steepness, spectral bandwidth and beach slope. Coastal Engineering 121, 77-89.

Ruessink, B. G., H. Michallet, T. Abreu, F. Sancho, D. A. Van der A, J. J. Van der Werf and P. A. Silva. 2011. Observations of velocities, sand concentrations, and fluxes under velocity-asymmetric oscillatory flows. Journal of Geophysical Research 116(C3).

Ruessink, B. G., G. Ramaekers and L. C. van Rijn. 2012. On the parameterization of the free-stream non-linear wave orbital motion in nearshore morphodynamic models. Coastal Engineering 65, 56-63.

Schretlen, J. L. M. 2012. Sand transport under full-scale progressive surface waves. PhD Thesis, University of Twente, The Netherlands.

Scott, N. V., T. J. Hsu and D. Cox. 2009. Steep wave, turbulence, and sediment concentration statistics beneath a breaking wave field and their implications for sediment transport. Continental Shelf Research. 29(20), 2303-2317.

Sleath, J. F. A. 1999. Conditions for plug formation in oscillatory flow. Continental Shelf Research 19(13), 1643-1664.

Spielmann, K., D. Astruc and O. Thual. 2004. Analysis of some key parametrizations in a beach profile morphodynamical model. Coastal Engineering 51(10), 1021-1049.

Steetzel, H. 1993. Cross-shore transport during storm surges. PhD thesis, TU Delft, the Netherlands.

Sumer, B. M., H. A. A. Guner, N. M. Hansen, D. R. Fuhrman and J. Fredsøe. 2013. Laboratory observations of flow and sediment transport induced by plunging regular waves. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 118(11), 6161-6182.

Svendsen, I. A., P. A. Madsen and J. Buhr Hansen. 1978. Wave characteristics in the surf zone. Proceedings of the 16th Conference on Coastal Engineering. ASCE, 520-539.

Ting, F. C. K. and J. T. Kirby 1996. Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a spilling breaker. Coastal Engineering 27(3-4), 131-160.

Van der A, D. A., J. S. Ribberink, J. J. van der Werf, T. O'Donoghue, R. H. Buijsrogge and W. M. Kranenburg. 2013. Practical sand transport formula for non-breaking waves and currents. Coastal Engineering 76, 26-42.

Van der A, D. A., J. Van der Zanden, T. O'Donoghue, I. Cáceres, S. J. McLelland and J. S. Ribberink. Submitted. Hydrodynamics and turbulence under a large-scale plunging wave over a fixed bar. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans.

Van der Zanden, J. 2016. Sand Transport Processes in the Surf and Swash Zones. PhD Thesis, University of Twente, the Netherlands, 202 pp.

Van der Zanden, J., J. M. Alsina, I. Cáceres, R. H. Buijsrogge and J. S. Ribberink. 2015. Bed level motions and sheet flow processes in the swash zone: Observations with a new conductivity-based concentration measuring technique (CCM+). Coastal Engineering 105, 47-65.

Van der Zanden, J., D. A. van der A, D. Hurther, I. Cáceres, T. O'Donoghue and J. S. Ribberink. 2016.

Near-bed hydrodynamics and turbulence below a large-scale plunging breaking wave over a mobile barred bed profile. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans 121(8), 6482-6506.

Van der Zanden, J., D. A. Van der A, D. Hurther, I. Cáceres, T. O'Donoghue and J. S. Ribberink. Submitted. Suspended sediment transport around a large-scale laboratory breaker bar. Coastal Engineering.

Van Rijn, L. C. 2007. Unified View of Sediment Transport by Currents and Waves. II: Suspended Transport. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering 133(6), 668-689.

van Rijn, L. C., J. S. Ribberink, J. J. van der Werf and D. J. R. Walstra. 2013. Coastal sediment dynamics: recent advances and future research needs. Journal of Hydraulic Research 51(5), 475-493.

Walstra, D. J. R., A. J. H. M. Reniers, R. Ranasinghe, J. A. Roelvink and B. G. Ruessink. 2012. On bar growth and decay during interannual net offshore migration. Coastal Engineering 60, 190-200.

Watanabe, A. and S. Sato. 2004. A sheet-flow transport rate for asymmetric, forward-leaning waves and currents. Proceedings of the 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, World Scientific, 1703-1714.

Yoon, H. D. and D. T. Cox. 2012. Cross-shore variation of intermittent sediment suspension and turbulence induced by depth-limited wave breaking. Continental Shelf Research 47, 93-106.

Zhou, Z., T.-J. Hsu, D. Cox and X. Liu. 2017. Large-eddy simulation of wave-breaking induced turbulent coherent structures and suspended sediment transport on a barred beach. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans.

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.