IMPACT OF RANDOM WAVE SPECTRA ON STOKES DRIFT IN COASTAL CURRENT MODELING

  • Yuki Imai
  • Junichi Ninomiya
  • Nobuhito Mori

Abstract

The wave-induced velocity, known commonly as Stokes drift, plays an important role on upper ocean current system. However, in general, the depth profile tends to be estimated using a regular wave approximation like calculation from significant wave height in order to simplify the modeling. Breivik et al. (2014) proposed an improved Stokes drift profile to considering random waves but discussed limited to deep water. This study proposes a novel treatment of Stokes drift on random waves to consider full directional spectra and the approximated treatment is introduced into coupled ocean-wave model to apply for the depth-limited region. To validate the proposed treatment, Stokes drift velocity derived from the treatment is theoretically and empirically compared with some derived from regular wave approximation. Finally coastal current simulation is performed for Kii channel of Japan focusing on Tanabe bay by the coupled model with two-way-nesting scheme.

References

Breivik, Ø., Janssen, P. A., & Bidlot, J. R. (2014): approximate stokes drift profiles in deep water. Journal of Physical Oceanography, vol. 44(9), pp. 2433-2445.

Mori, N., Onorato, M., & Janssen, P. A. (2011): On the estimation of the kurtosis in directional sea states for freak wave forecasting. Journal of Physical Oceanography, vol. 41(8), pp. 1484-1497.

Published
2018-12-30
How to Cite
Imai, Y., Ninomiya, J., & Mori, N. (2018). IMPACT OF RANDOM WAVE SPECTRA ON STOKES DRIFT IN COASTAL CURRENT MODELING. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(36), currents.1. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.1

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