AbstractMost of fishing ports in Hokkaido, Japan are located in the surf zone on the sandy beach. As a result, channel sedimentation has become a serious problem in many fishing ports. As an example, when planning a coastal structure to control littoral drift and nearshore current, annual maximum wave heights (wind waves) is used as the external forces condition in many cases. However, the effect as expected is not obtained on channel sedimentation at fishing ports in Hokkaido. To solve such a problem, it is necessary to understand the relationships between channel sedimentation and external force, and be able to reveal the developmental process of channel sedimentation. Then, field observation and theoretical approach (wave-to-wave analysis, spectral analysis, EOF analysis, et al) become important tools.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S.,1984. Statistical properties of waves groups in a random sea state. Phil. Trans. Roy. Soc. London, A312:219-250.
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