AbstractThe surf zone dynamics are governed by important processes such as turbulence generation , nearshore sediment transport , wave run-up and wave overtopping at a coastal structure. During field observations , it is very challenging to measure and quantify wave breaking turbulence . Complementary to experimental laboratory studies in a more controlled environment , numerical simulations are highly suitable to understand and quantify surf zone processes more accurately. In this study, wave propagation and wave breaking over a fixed barred beach profile is investigated using a two phase Navier-Stokes flow solver. We show that accurate predictions of the turbulent two-phase flow field require special attention regarding turbulence modelling. The numerical wave flume is implemented in the open source OpenFOAM library. The computed results (surface elevations , velocity profiles and turbulence levels) are compared against experimental measurements in a wave flume (van der A et al., 2017) .
Devolder, Rauwoens, Troch (2017) : Application of a buoyancy-modified k-w SSTturbulence model to simulate wave run-up around a monopile subjected to regular waves using OpenFOAM®, Coastal Engineering, ELSEVIER, vol. 125, pp. 81-94 .
Devolder, Troch, Rauwoens (2018): Performance of a buoyancy-modified k-w and k-w SSTturbulence model for simulating wave breaking under regular waves using OpenFOAM®, Coastal Engineering , ELSEVIER , vol. 138, pp. 49-65 .
van der A, van der Zanden, O'Donoghue , Hurther, Caceres, Mclelland, Ribberink (2017): Large-scale laboratory study of breaking wave hydrodynamics over a fixed bar, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans , JOHN WILEY & SONS, vol. 122, pp. 3287-3310 .