THE RESPONSE OF HARBOR ENVIRONMENTS PROTECTED BY IRREGULAR FRINGING REEF SYSTEMS TO STRONG GRAVITY WAVE FORCING - A CASE STUDY
AbstractThree high-resolution, dispersive nearshore numerical models (BOSZ - Roeber & Cheung, 2012; FUNWAVE - Shi et al., 2012; XBeach - Roelvink et al., 2009) are compared and contrasted with observations from fringing- reef and harbor environments, in an attempt to test their ability to reproduce the wave transformation processes in a complex Hawaiian reef-system environment forced by highly energetic sea/swell wave conditions. Hale'iwa Harbor, located on Oahu's North Shore (Figure 1), is a small boat harbor that faces serious operational problems resulting from water level fluctuations and currents during periods of strong swells. These oscillations are predominantly at infragravity periods (rather than swell periods), and, nearly every winter season, their amplitude levels are sufficiently large to trigger significant surges in the harbor. These surges can cause damage to harbor infrastructure and boats, and threaten the safety of mariners who attempt to enter or exit the harbor.
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