AbstractThe aim of this study is to investigate Bichromatic-Bidirectional waves to characterize the subtractive wave-wave nonlinear interactions, using adaptive techniques rather than traditional spectral techniques. A physical model test in a 3D-wave basin was conducted and measurements were made with two arrays of ultrasonic sensors of free surface and one array of ADVs. The Hilbert-Huang transform, aided by the Multivariate Empirical Mode Decomposition, was applied to the orbital velocity data and the main characteristics of the infragravity wave (velocity amplitude, period and direction) were extracted with a good precision.
Aagaard, T., and B. Greenwood. 2008. Infragravity Wave Contribution to Surf Zone Sediment Transport - The Role of Advection, Marine Geology, 251 (1-2): 1-14.
Ardhuin, F., L. Gualtieri, and E. Stutzmann. 2015. How Ocean Waves Rock the Earth: Two Mechanisms Explain Microseisms with Periods 3 to 300 S, Geophysical Research Letters, 42 (3):
Bertin, X., A. Bakker, A. Dongeren, G. Coco, G. André, F. Ardhuin, P. Bonneton, et al. 2018. Infragravity Waves: From Driving Mechanisms to Impacts, Earth-Science Reviews, January.
Cheriton, O.M., C.D. Storlazzi, and K.J. Rosenberger. 2016. Observations of Wave Transformation over a Fringing Coral Reef and the Importance of Low-Frequency Waves and Offshore Water Levels to Runup, Overwash, and Coastal Flooding, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 121 (5): 3121-40.
Dalrymple, R.A., J.H. MacMahan, A.J.H.M. Reniers, and V. Nelko. 2011. Rip Currents, Annu. Rev. Fluid Mech., 43 (1): 551-81.
Geng, X., and M.C. Boufadel. 2015. Numerical Study of Solute Transport in Shallow Beach Aquifers Subjected to Waves and Tides, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 120 (2): 1409-28.
Goring, D.G, and V.I. Nikora. 2002. Despiking Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter Data, Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, 128 (1): 117-26.
Huang, N.E, Z. Shen, S.R. Long, M.C. Wu, H.H. Shih, Q. Zheng, N.-C. Yen, C.C Tung, and H.H. Liu. 1998. The Empirical Mode Decomposition and the Hilbert Spectrum for Nonlinear and Non-Stationary Time Series Analysis, Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 454 (1971): 903-95.
Janssen, T.T. 2003. Long Waves Induced by Short-Wave Groups over a Sloping Bottom, Journal of Geophysical Research, 108 (C8): 3252.
Lane, S.N., P.M. Biron, K.F. Bradbrook, J.B. Butler, J.H. Chandler, M.D. Crowell, S.J. McLelland, K.S. Richards, and A.G. Roy. 1998. Three†dimensional Measurement of River Channel Flow Processes Using Acoustic Doppler Velocimetry, Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 23 (13): 1247-67.
Li, L., and D.A. Barry. 2000. Wave-Induced Beach Groundwater Flow, Advances in Water Resources, 23 (4): 325-37.
Liu, M., D.Z. Zhu, and N. Rajaratnam. 2002. Evaluation of ADV Measurements in Bubbly Two-Phase Flows, In: Hydraulic Measurements and Experimental Methods Specialty Conference (HMEM) 2002, ASCE.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S. 1950. A Theory of the Origin of Microseisms, Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 243 (857): 1-35.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S. 1983. Wave Set-Up, Percolation and Undertow in the Surf Zone, Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 390 (1799): 283-91.
Lykke Andersen, T., M.R. Eldrup, and P. Frigaard. 2017. Estimation of Incident and Reflected Components in Highly Nonlinear Regular Waves, Coastal Engineering 119 (January): 51-64.
Munk, W.H. 1949. Surf Beats, American Geophysical Union, 30 (6): 849-54.
Neves, C.F., L.M. Endres, J. Fortes, and D. Spinola. 2012. The Use of Adv in Wave Flumes: Getting More Information about Waves, Coastal Engineering Proceedings 1 (33): 1-15.
Nose, T., A. Babanin, and K. Ewans. 2016. Directional Analysis and Potential for Spectral Modelling of Infragravity Waves, In: Volume 7: Ocean Engineering, V007T06A091. ASME.
Rusello, P.J. 2009. A Practical Primer for Pulse Coherent Instruments, Technical Note TN-027,
Sand, S.E. 1982. Long Waves in Directional Seas, Coastal Engineering 6 (3): 195-208.
Sharma, J.N., and R.G. Dean. 1981. Second-Order Directional Seas and Associated Wave Forces. Society of Petroleum Engineers Journal, 21 (01): 129-40.
Thompson, R.O.R.Y. 1983. Low-Pass Filters to Suppress Inertial and Tidal Frequencies, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 13 (6): 1077-83.
Tucker, M.J. 1950. Surf Beats: Sea Waves of 1 to 5 Min. Period, Proceedings of the Royal Society A: Mathematical, Physical and Engineering Sciences, 202 (1071): 565-73.
Rehman, N.U., C. Park, N.E. Huang, and D.P. Mandic. 2013. EMD via MEMD: Multivariate Noise-Aided Computation of Standard EMD, Advances in Adaptive Data Analysis, 05 (02): 1350007.
Voulgaris, G., and J.H. Trowbridge. 1998. Evaluation of the Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter (ADV) for Turbulence Measurements, Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 15 (1): 272-89.
Young, A.P., P.N. Adams, W.C. O'Reilly, R.E. Flick, and R.T. Guza. 2011. Coastal Cliff Ground Motions from Local Ocean Swell and Infragravity Waves in Southern California, Journal of Geophysical Research, 116 (C9): C09007.