A MODEL TO SIMULATE BEACH PROFILE EVOLUTION INDUCED BY STORMS

  • Jie Zhang
  • Magnus Larson
  • Zhenpeng Ge

Abstract

Beach profile change induced by storms is a common and complex process in coastal engineering. Storms often bring high water levels and large waves, which erode the berm and dune, carrying large quantities of sand offshore, often causing severe damage to coastal properties. Thus, considerable research has been carried out to determine storm impact. Early studies mainly focused on laboratory investigations and analysis of field data. Since the 1980's, many engineering numerical models of beach profile change have been developed. Kriebel and Dean (1985) proposed a model (EBEACH) to simulate the beach profile evolution with focus on dune erosion during storms, using the concept of an equilibrium beach profile (EBP). However, features such as bars and berms are not described in this model. Larson and Kraus (1989) developed an empirically based model (SBEACH) for describing the formation of bars and berms, also applying the EBP concept. Steetzel (1990) developed a model for cross-shore transport during severe storms that focuses on offshore transport and erosion. Johnson et al. (2012) developed a CS profile evolution model, CSHORE, that is mainly used to predict beach erosion under the combined effect of waves and currents. Although the model provided satisfactory performance in simulating measured berm and dune erosion in field applications, further improvements in dealing with the sediment transport in the intermittently wet-dry areas are desirable. At present, XBeach proposed by Roelvink et al. (2009) is the most popular and widely used model together with SBEACH. Although the objective of the XBeach model is to predict the profile evolution along the entire profile, i.e., both in the subaerial and subaqueous regions, the processes in the former region are less well described from a physics point of view compared to the latter. The response of the subaerial region in XBeach, including the foreshore, berm, and dune, relies on rather ad-hoc empirical sediment transport formulations. This study presents a profile evolution model that is based on the work by Larson et al. (2015). The emphasis of the model development is physically based descriptions of the subaerial profile response induced by storms. Focus of the model validation here is the berm and foreshore region.

References

Camenen, B., Larson, M. (2005): A bedload sediment transport formula for the nearshore, Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 63(1-2), 249-260.

Camenen, B., Larson, M. (2008): A general formula for noncohesive suspended sediment transport, Journal of Coastal Research, 615-627.

Johnson, B. D., Kobayashi, N., Gravens, M. B. (2012): Cross-shore numerical model CSHORE for waves, currents, sediment transport and beach profile evolution (No. ERDC/CHL-TR-12-22), ENGINEER RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT CENTER VICKSBURG MS COASTAL AND HYDRAULICS LAB.

Kraus, N.C., Smith, J.M. (1994): SUPERTANK laboratory data collection project, TR-CERC-94-3, USACE-WES, Vicksburg, MS.

Kriebel, D. L., Dean, R. G. (1985): Numerical simulation of time-dependent beach and dune erosion, Coastal Engineering, 9(3), 221-245.

Larson, M. (1995): Model for decay of random waves in surf zone, Journal of waterway, port, coastal, and ocean engineering, 121(1), 1-12.

Larson, M., Erikson, L., Hanson, H. (2004): An analytical model to predict dune erosion due to wave impact, Coastal Engineering, 51(8-9), 675-696.

Larson, M., Kraus, N. C. (1989): SBEACH: numerical model for simulating storm-induced beach change, Report 1: Empirical foundation and model development (No. CERC-TR-89-9), Coastal Engineering Research Center Vicksburg Ms.

Larson, M., Westergren, S., Hanson, H. (2015): Modeling beach profile response to varying waves and water levels with special focus on the subaerial region, The Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments 2015.

Rattanapitikon, W., Shibayama, T. (2000): Simple model for undertow profile, Coastal Engineering Journal, 42(1), 1-30.

Roelvink, D., Reniers, A., Van Dongeren, A. P., de Vries, J. V. T., McCall, R., Lescinski, J. (2009): Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands, Coastal engineering, 56(11-12), 1133-1152.

Steetzel, H. J. (1990): Cross-shore transport during storm surges, Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(22).

Published
2018-12-30
How to Cite
Zhang, J., Larson, M., & Ge, Z. (2018). A MODEL TO SIMULATE BEACH PROFILE EVOLUTION INDUCED BY STORMS. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(36), sediment.10. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.sediment.10

Most read articles by the same author(s)