PREDICTING THE BREAKING STRENGTH OF GRAVITY WATER WAVES FROM DEEP TO SHALLOW WATER

  • James T. Kirby
  • Morteza Derakhti
  • Michael L. Banner
  • Stephan Grilli

Abstract

We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the breaking strength of 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves.Our goal is to find a robust and local parameterization to predict the breaking strength of 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves. We use a LES/VOF model described by Derakhti & Kirby (2014) to simulate nonlinear wave evolution, breaking onset and post-breaking behavior for representative cases of focused wave packets or modulated wave trains. Using these numerical results, we investigate the relationship between the breaking strength parameter b and the breaking onset parameter B proposed by Barthelemy et al. (2018). While the results are potentially applicable more generally, in this paper we concentrate on breaking events due to focusing or modulational instability in wave packets over flat bottom topography and for conditions ranging from deep to intermediate depth, with depth to wavelength ratios ranging from 0.68 to 0.13.

References

Banner, Peirson (2007): Wave breaking onset and strength for two-dimensional deep-water wave groups. J. Fluid Mech., 585, 93-115.

Barthelemy, Banner, Peirson, Fedele, Allis, Dias (2018) On a unified breaking onset threshold for gravity waves in deep and intermediate depth water. J. Fluid Mech., 841, 463-488.

Derakhti, Kirby (2014): Bubble entrainment and liquid bubble interaction under unsteady breaking waves, J. Fluid Mech., 761, 464-506.

Derakhti, Kirby (2016): Breaking-onset, energy and momentum flux in unsteady focused wave packets, J. Fluid Mech., 790, 553-581.

Derakhti, Banner, Kirby (2018): Predicting the breaking strength of gravity water waves in deep and intermediate depth, J. Fluid Mech., in press.

Kirby, Derakhti (2018): Short-crested wave breaking, European J. Mechanics/B Fluids, in press.

Romero, Melville, Kleiss (2012): Spectral energy dissipation due to surface wave breaking, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 42, 1421- 1444.

Published
2018-12-30
How to Cite
Kirby, J. T., Derakhti, M., Banner, M. L., & Grilli, S. (2018). PREDICTING THE BREAKING STRENGTH OF GRAVITY WATER WAVES FROM DEEP TO SHALLOW WATER. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(36), waves.9. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.9

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