EDGE WAVE INDUCED BY AN ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE DISTURBANCE MOVING ALONG A SLOPING BEACH

  • Yixiang Chen
  • Xiaojing Niu

Abstract

Edge wave can be generated by an atmospheric pressure disturbance moving along the shoreline on a sloping beach. A two-dimensional numerical model based on non-linear shallow water equations is established and a set of numerical experiments are conducted to study the edge wave packets evolution in coastal ocean. In light of the analytical solutions by Greenspan, some dominant factors are discussed, such as disturbance spatial size, translation speed, its location and the slope inclination, that influence the generation conditions and evolution process of edge waves. The results indicate on what circumstances significant edge waves will be excited and how long it takes for the wave growth.

References

An, C., Liu, P. L., & Seo, S. N. (2012). Large-scale edge waves generated by a moving atmospheric pressure. Theoretical and Applied Mechanics Letters, 2(4).

Eckart, C. (1951). Surface waves on water of variable depth. Wave report nr. 100, SIO reference 51-12.

Greenspan, H. P. (1956). The generation of edge waves by moving pressure distributions. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 1(6), 574-592.

Seo, S. N., & Liu, P. L. F. (2013). Edge waves generated by the landslide on a sloping beach. Coastal Engineering, 73, 133-150.

Seo, S. N., & Liu, P. L. F. (2014). Edge waves generated by atmospheric pressure disturbances moving along a shoreline on a sloping beach. Coastal Engineering, 85, 43-59.

Ursell, F. (1952). Edge waves on a sloping beach. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London, 214(1116), 79-97.

Published
2018-12-30
How to Cite
Chen, Y., & Niu, X. (2018). EDGE WAVE INDUCED BY AN ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE DISTURBANCE MOVING ALONG A SLOPING BEACH. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(36), waves.82. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.waves.82