FIELD MEASUREMENTS AND SWASH PARAMETERIZATION ON BEACHES
ICCE 2018 Cover Image
PDF

Supplementary Files

Conference Presentation File

How to Cite

da Silva, P. G., Medina, R., González, M., & Garnier, R. (2018). FIELD MEASUREMENTS AND SWASH PARAMETERIZATION ON BEACHES. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(36), currents.23. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.23

Abstract

The wave runup, defined as the vertical oscillation of the water edge at the coast, is commonly used as criterion for coastal design projects and flooding/erosion risk analysis. Due to the complexity of nearshore wave processes, most runup studies are based on empirical approaches which directly relate these oscillations to the beach and offshore wave characteristics. However, there is still considerable debate about just how runup is related to these environmental parameters, as well as about the range of application of empirical models due to site specific conditions. Recent works emphasized the importance of including site specific conditions to reduce the scatter in available parameterizations. Parameters related to beach characteristics like the sediment size, the amount of reflection, wave spectral shape and morphodynamic beach state may improve runup predictions (Poate et al., 2016, Guza and Feddersen, 2012).
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v36.currents.23
PDF

References

Gomes da Silva, Medina, González, Garnier (2017). Observations of wave, runup and beach characteristics during the MUSCLE-Beach experiment. doi.org/10.17632/6yh2b327gd.2

Gomes da Silva, Medina, González and Garnier (2018). Infragravity swash parameterization on beaches: the role of the profile shape and the morphodynamic beach state. Coastal Engineering, vol. 136, pp. 41-55.

Guza and Bowen (1976): Resonant interactions for waves breaking on a beach. Proc. 15th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, pp. 560-578.

Guza and Feddersen (2012): Effect of wave frequency and directional spread on shoreline runup. Geophysical Research Letters, vol. 39 n. L11607, doi:10.1029/2012GL051959

Guza, Thornton and Holman (1984): Swash on steep and shallow beaches. Proc. 19th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng. ASCE, pp. 708-723.

Poate, McCall, Masselink (2016): A new parameterization for runup on gravel beaches. Coastal Engineering, vol. 117, pp. 176-190.

Ruggiero, Komar, McDougal, Marra and Beach, (2001): Wave runup, extreme water levels and the erosion of properties backing beaches. Journal of Coastal Research, vol. 17, pp. 407-419.

Stockdon, Holman, Howd, and Sallenger, A.H. (2006). "Empirical parametrization of setup, swash and runup†. Coastal Engineering. vol.53, pp. 573-588.

Wright, L.D., Short, A.D. and Green, M.O. (1985): Shortterm changes in the morphodynamic states of beaches and surf zones: an empirical predictive model. Marine Geology, vol: 62, pp. 339-364.

Suhayda (1974). Standing waves on beaches. Journal of Geophysical Research. vol. 29, n.71, pp. 3065-3071.

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.